PsychoGramm - How far can I push my clean climbing ?

pic Beat Kammerlander

I set off, tension, adrenalin, focus, concentrated willpower, freedom. I fall, the rope catches me, life, relief, joy… The micro-nut has held the fall.

The Bürser Platte in Vorarlberg - it´s climbing history resembles a roller coaster ride. From the quarry to a „techno playground“ of artificial climbing „aka“ piton raging. Then the sport climbing era, free and as difficult as the routes could possibly be, but certainly safe. Then - a long time of silence around this unique wall. Up until Beat Kammerlander had a vision in mind.

He removed the bolts of the only free climbing line in this plate and then climbed it clean; there is talk of the “Prinzip Hoffnung”. With a clear “no” to a in suit protection Beat created something new at the Bürser Platte. Free climbing, mobile protections, that are placed while climbing, or plain „clean climbing“.

I was fascinated early by climbing with natural protection and so it came that in December 2009 I was able to realize the first repetition of the ”Prinzip Hoffnung”. I felt the urge for more, looking for a new challenge.

In the central part of the Bürser wall there is a delicate crack which meanders up, and completely levels off in the middle of the wall. While examining the line, it seemed impossible to climb safely with mobile protection. During the checkout in top rope I realized that the boulder at the end of the crack is really hard. From ten attempts I managed the boulder only once. Bad protection, „ground fall“ potential and a crux sequence I only succeeded every tenth time? A simple calculation – the project was too dangerous, wherefore it was put on ice.

This winter I thought a lot about walls, ice formations and mountains I wanted to try. But after my return from the ice-rich Norway my projects didn´t grow or they were in a ramshackle condition. So it was that I went to the Bürser plate again. The process began anew, boldering, checking the placements …. tactics. After several attempts I was able to connect the very uncertain sequences of movements. I was able to make all the moves, but that was only the beginning of the challenge to climb the route in a clean climbing style.

pic. Beat Kammerlander

When I said that I am going for the lead there was silence at the ground of the wall. My friends Hannes and Flo, who tried to grant for my protection, took themselves back.

The energy surrounding us was palpable. Tension, then concentration. I felt my willingness to give absolutely everything I have, but still to act differentiated, also to decide conscious.

A compilation of all experiences and sequences of motions to a point – here and now. I´m ready.

There were three more falls until I climbed Psychogramm red point.

Alex Luger

Filmed and produced by Beat Kammerlander. Beat followed my process trying to clean climb this crazy line with his camera, so all the shots are real and the climbingshots were took during my three tries and on the fourth when I sent it. The movie is more a documentary than a climbing porn. It´s more than just a hard moves and chalking.....

Enjoy it.

Sangre de Toro on the cover of the new Vorarlberg Alpine Guidebook by Panico

All my first ascents at the Rote Wand are now featured in the new alpine guide and much more nice routes and walls of our region. http://www.panico.de/alpinkletterfuehrer-vorarlberg.html

Exposure and the First Snow....

 Fresh snow on the small glaicer autum is here. pic Alex Luger

This summer was not really a summer, in my region it rained a lot but I tried my best to get on my new project on the rare days without rain and blizzards. I did a first ascent on a 350+meters face with the upper headwall constantly overhanging. The steepness of the face made the climbing into the unknown very intense because there is not much to rest on. Now I am working on the redpoint. The day before yesterday it snowed 20cm on the summit. Summer is really over. Hope there will be some nice weather still to come for some quality tries on the route.  

 The headwall is steep.

 Chilling out on a small ledge befor the crux pitch.

All pictures Alex Luger collection.

Working on my Project....

 During the first ascent after the cruxpitch. Copyright Alex Luger

Mentally and physically exhausting but happy days. Copyright Alex Luger

The Underdog - Climax Interview Issue 21

Aurora Borealis

 pic. Ray Demski

pic Ray Demski

The trip to Norway was amazing, lot´s of inspiring and wonderful ice climbing lines great alpine climbing and a good climbing ethic. The people are very hospitably and they say things straight out, what makes it very uncomplicated.

We have been in the Lyngen Alps for iceclimbing and shooting aurora borealis. So the days where quiet long, but I like the feeling of a harsh nature and the cold with the big sleeping bag in view ;).

We where a nice team with Hanno Schluge, Ray Demsky, Heli Putz, Thomas Schermer and Cameron Sylvester whose kept the spirits high even in darker times.

Hanno Schluge and me managed to realise a cool first ascent as the locals confirmed. The 6 pitches long route is called Stuorraniibi (Sami Knife) and we rated it WI6, M7. The protection is clean. What I really like on this climb is that we didn´t left any traces from our ascent. The rock is sometimes loose but with some alpine experience you can enjoy the climb. A king line.

So now the photo project is online with unique pictures and a short clip of the trip.

The link to the project: 

http://redbullphotography.com/projects/norwegian-ice/

The clip of the trip:

http://vimeo.com/93617346

    Thanks to the team for the nice time. I will be back for sure.

On the Cover of Gripped

Lugerhammer 8b clean ascent, Location Indian Himalaya.

When I walked around this unexplored (in climbers view) mountain range I carried always a binocular with a monopole extension on it, from far it looked like a big hammer ; )

Highball - Movie First Repetition of "Mainstream Fb7c+ /E8"

Movie "Sangre de Toro" - Rote Wand German

Movie (English) and Topo of “Sangre de Toro“

Copyrights by Beat Kammerlander

Finishing a big project has two sides; on one side there is happiness satisfaction. On the other side something that dominates your thoughts, your feelings and your daily routine disappears. You feel empty.  

And what is after the emptiness? Another thing you will invest your energy, your emotions, your thoughts. Should we call it stupid or nonsense?

I would call it “the wheel of life”.

The Cantino Brothers Trip to Bleau

 Cantinos getting older ;)

..... and with the age grows the wisdom ; )

 No Highballs!!!! Seems Cantino 77 and I are getting older and more wise ;)…. Actually I would call it my first “real” Bouldertrip to the area where bouldering really makes sense. My other visits had always some spicy stuff in it but on this trip most of the time we did some classic climbing and parcouring just with climbing shoes and the pads left in the car. Thanks Flo for the nice time……

  I comme Irun Fb 7c

 Hotline Fb 7c

Eiger North Face

                      Götterquergang

If you like mountaineering and you live in the centre of the Alps you know the history of the Eigernorthface and at some part you want to climb it. I always had in mind to do it some day but never focused on it.

After my return from a short trip to Fontainbleau (details will follow) Hanno sent the following message: The weather is good! I knew immediately that he is talking about the Eiger because we wanted to climb it and as it´s in our backyard we waited for nice conditions.

So after my arrival I changed the crashpad with crampons and a pair of tools.

When we left my girlfriend asked me if I can climb the Eiger with my fucked up fingertips (everyone knows what I am talking about after a intense time in Bleau), I had to smile and explained that I was quiet sure I don´t have to crimp or pull on a sloper in bleaustyle on the north face in winter.

We planned to do it in one day so I was concerned if my “cardial” endurance will be enough, because this winter I did more climbing than skitouring and mountaineering. But Hanno was quiet sure we will top out in a day. So we went pretty light but still with a stove some food and a bivibag for worst case.

On Friday at 2.00 o’clock in the morning we started from the Eigergletscher station.

We choose the option to exit out of the Stollenloch to save one hour of traversing to the foot of the wall.

At 3 am we stepped out of the tunnel and started the climb. At dawn we reached the Todesbiwak (Deathbivi) and were surprised that people still lied in their sleepingbags. We continued up the Ramp and had a good feeling because we still had plenty of time. As we reached the Spinne we saw two parties climbing up the exit chimneys so we slowed down a little because we didn´t want to be in line of the falling rock from the upper climbers. At 2 o´clock pm we reached the summit of the Eiger after 12 hours of walking and climbing. After a short rest we choose the decent via the west ridge following a nice ass slide down the snowslopes of the westflank. At 4 pm we reached the Eigergletscher station. We had some drinks to rehydrate and skied down to the car.

The conditions in the wall are pretty dry in the moment so no wet rock at all but on the other side not much ice either. The icefields are still in a good shape.

                                 Some where after the "Schwieriger Riss"
         

 

Quarzriss

 

I think it´s the Cortibiwak (bealy before the Exitchimmneys)

 

the last meters to the ridge

 

           Summit yeahh

the face at arround 4.30pm, while skiing to the car

Covershot on the pareti

Location: Brückenkerze WI 6, Averstal.
Thanks Beat Kammerlander for the nice pics