If you like mountaineering and you live in the centre of the Alps you know the history of the Eigernorthface and at some part you want to climb it. I always had in mind to do it some day but never focused on it.
After my return from a short trip to Fontainbleau (details will follow) Hanno sent the following message: The weather is good! I knew immediately that he is talking about the Eiger because we wanted to climb it and as it´s in our backyard we waited for nice conditions.
So after my arrival I changed the crashpad with crampons and a pair of tools.
When we left my girlfriend asked me if I can climb the Eiger with my fucked up fingertips (everyone knows what I am talking about after a intense time in Bleau), I had to smile and explained that I was quiet sure I don´t have to crimp or pull on a sloper in bleaustyle on the north face in winter.
We planned to do it in one day so I was concerned if my “cardial” endurance will be enough, because this winter I did more climbing than skitouring and mountaineering. But Hanno was quiet sure we will top out in a day. So we went pretty light but still with a stove some food and a bivibag for worst case.
On Friday at 2.00 o’clock in the morning we started from the Eigergletscher station.
We choose the option to exit out of the Stollenloch to save one hour of traversing to the foot of the wall.
At 3 am we stepped out of the tunnel and started the climb. At dawn we reached the Todesbiwak (Deathbivi) and were surprised that people still lied in their sleepingbags. We continued up the Ramp and had a good feeling because we still had plenty of time. As we reached the Spinne we saw two parties climbing up the exit chimneys so we slowed down a little because we didn´t want to be in line of the falling rock from the upper climbers. At 2 o´clock pm we reached the summit of the Eiger after 12 hours of walking and climbing. After a short rest we choose the decent via the west ridge following a nice ass slide down the snowslopes of the westflank. At 4 pm we reached the Eigergletscher station. We had some drinks to rehydrate and skied down to the car.
The conditions in the wall are pretty dry in the moment so no wet rock at all but on the other side not much ice either. The icefields are still in a good shape.
I think it´s the Cortibiwak (bealy before the Exitchimmneys)
the last meters to the ridge
the face at arround 4.30pm, while skiing to the car