Dienstag, 1. April 2014

Movie "Sangre de Toro" - Rote Wand German

Movie (English) and Topo of “Sangre de Toro“

Copyrights by Beat Kammerlander

Finishing a big project has two sides; on one side there is happiness satisfaction. On the other side something that dominates your thoughts, your feelings and your daily routine disappears. You feel empty.  
And what is after the emptiness? Another thing you will invest your energy, your emotions, your thoughts. Should we call it stupid or nonsense?

I would call it “the wheel of life”.

Dienstag, 18. März 2014

The Cantino Brothers Trip to Bleau

 Cantinos getting older ;)

..... and with the age grows the wisdom ; )

 No Highballs!!!! Seems Cantino 77 and I are getting older and more wise ;)…. Actually I would call it my first “real” Bouldertrip to the area where bouldering really makes sense. My other visits had always some spicy stuff in it but on this trip most of the time we did some classic climbing and parcouring just with climbing shoes and the pads left in the car. Thanks Flo for the nice time……

  I comme Irun Fb 7c

 Hotline Fb 7c

Sonntag, 16. März 2014

Eiger North Face


If you like mountaineering and you live in the centre of the Alps you know the history of the Eigernorthface and at some part you want to climb it. I always had in mind to do it some day but never focused on it.
After my return from a short trip to Fontainbleau (details will follow) Hanno sent the following message: The weather is good! I knew immediately that he is talking about the Eiger because we wanted to climb it and as it´s in our backyard we waited for nice conditions.
So after my arrival I changed the crashpad with crampons and a pair of tools.
When we left my girlfriend asked me if I can climb the Eiger with my fucked up fingertips (everyone knows what I am talking about after a intense time in Bleau), I had to smile and explained that I was quiet sure I don´t have to crimp or pull on a sloper in bleaustyle on the north face in winter.
We planned to do it in one day so I was concerned if my “cardial” endurance will be enough, because this winter I did more climbing than skitouring and mountaineering. But Hanno was quiet sure we will top out in a day. So we went pretty light but still with a stove some food and a bivibag for worst case.

On Friday at 2.00 o’clock in the morning we started from the Eigergletscher station.
We choose the option to exit out of the Stollenloch to save one hour of traversing to the foot of the wall.
At 3 am we stepped out of the tunnel and started the climb. At dawn we reached the Todesbiwak (Deathbivi) and were surprised that people still lied in their sleepingbags. We continued up the Ramp and had a good feeling because we still had plenty of time. As we reached the Spinne we saw two parties climbing up the exit chimneys so we slowed down a little because we didn´t want to be in line of the falling rock from the upper climbers. At 2 o´clock pm we reached the summit of the Eiger after 12 hours of walking and climbing. After a short rest we choose the decent via the west ridge following a nice ass slide down the snowslopes of the westflank. At 4 pm we reached the Eigergletscher station. We had some drinks to rehydrate and skied down to the car.
The conditions in the wall are pretty dry in the moment so no wet rock at all but on the other side not much ice either. The icefields are still in a good shape.
                                 Some where after the "Schwieriger Riss"

I think it´s the Cortibiwak (bealy before the Exitchimmneys)

the last meters to the ridge

           Summit yeahh

the face at arround 4.30pm, while skiing to the car

Freitag, 7. Februar 2014

Dienstag, 15. Oktober 2013

Movie Tonight on Television at ORF SPORTPLUS

Air time on Mainstream Ticino. Photo by Radek Capek

You can watch the movie of the climb „Sangre de Toro“ and Highballing on ORF SPORTPLUS at 22.45 o´clock. There will be a live stream too on the homepage of ORF Sport plus.


Donnerstag, 12. September 2013

Filming projects

 climbing high on Mainstream for the filming. pic Radek Capek

After an intense ice climbing season and the trips to Utah and North Wales I had two filming project one with Bernd Zangerl and some Highballs. The other project is about the red point ascent off my multipitch route “Sangre de Toro” at the Rote Wand. Both movies will be coming soon in television. 

                                                on the cruxpitch 10+ of Sangre de Toro

                                at the belay before starting into the cruxpitch

After finishing the productions I headed to Chamonix with Jojo for some granite climbing.  As we got there the weather and conditions were just perfect but my mind was not, I felt lazy. Maybe I did too much climbing, it´s the first time in my climbing life where I felt it s okay to sit in the sun while there was a perfect high pressure in the Alps.  So after some days on the Cham-granite we ended up in Ceüse for some group sport climbing.

At the moment I am equipping new routes in my home area, amazing steep limestone….. but secret ; ).