climbing high on Mainstream for the filming. pic Radek Capek
intense ice climbing season and the trips to Utah and North Wales I had two
filming project one with Bernd Zangerl and some Highballs. The other project is
about the red point ascent off my multipitch route “Sangre de Toro” at the Rote
Wand. Both movies will be coming soon in television.
on the cruxpitch 10+ of Sangre de Toro
at the belay before starting into the cruxpitch
finishing the productions I headed to Chamonix with Jojo for some granite
climbing. As we got there the weather
and conditions were just perfect but my mind was not, I felt lazy. Maybe I did
too much climbing, it´s the first time in my climbing life where I felt it s
okay to sit in the sun while there was a perfect high pressure in the Alps.So after some days on the Cham-granite we
ended up in Ceüse for some group sport climbing.
moment I am equipping new routes in my home area, amazing steep limestone…..
but secret ; ).
first time in the US I travelled to Frankenjura for the Adidas Base Camp event
at Burg Rabenstein.
I met up
with the other climbers of the team and we had a great and productive time
together with meetings and climbing lot’s of chatting with the other athletes
and good food ;).
the famous slate quarry....... slippery climbing in a crazy area
few days with not much climbing, I travelled for my first time to North Wales.
In my mind I was prepared for shitty weather, scary routes, cool people and
lot´s of rock.
accompanied me and when we stepped out off Manchester airport the sun was
shining and no cloud was visible. This day Rob Greenwood picked us up and
introduced us to the Welsh rock. This visit we went climbing at the sea cliffs
of Gogarth, Rhoscolyn, Craig Dorys the Slate Quarry and on the pass. I fell in
love with the climbing in Wales. The walls are small compared to the Alps,
sometimes with lot´s of vegetation, and often wet. But there are lot ´s off
different types of rock so close that it´s easy to combine two climbing spots
in a day. The rocks are drying fast and on trad climbing it´s not about running
up 10 routes to have a proper training. I am remembering a writing on the bar
in the Klatrekafeen in Henningsvaer it ´s saying: “Sport climbing is like
eating a burger at Mc Donalds, you now what you get.” (Dough Scott)
the climbing on the sandstone in Utah, where you can almost place every two
meters a protection if you carry enough gear and a bomber endurance ;). In
Wales it was like being an artist. Looking up a blank wall deciding what gear
could be needed and just start the climb and see what you find. It´s more a
journey up the wall searching for features that will capture a wire, a cam or a
Electric Blue at Rhoscolyn, amazing solo
impression of the local climbing community was that everyone climbs but nobody
talks about how bold or epic his day was and that’s something I have rarely
seen on my travels. It´s just about climbing and not how is better or the more
team and friends fro the good times.
very windy day at the seacliffs of north wales
the weather was amazing, the first 4 days we had sunshine all day ; )
A E3 at the slate
Dreams and Screams, E6, on sight
Not so solid rock but great atmosphere, Craig Dorys
Classic E3 at Craig Dorys on a rainy day
Daddy Ben and the master genius himself Ray Wood at work!
and myself at work ;) Cockplot E5 on sight
amazing landscape and of course sheeps
All pictures of this post are taken by Doris Solis all rights reserved
should I start? My last entry is a long time ago and lots of stuff happened in
the mean time. After a intense iceclimbing season this winter I found myself
flying over the Atlantic. The aim was the desert of Utah, the long clean lines
of Indian Creek the towers, the arches, the emptiness. The first thing I felt
being out in the desert was water, water and water. I am born in a region where
water is just normal and if your in the mountains you will find tons of springs
and lots of rivers rushing down the steep valleys, everything is green and
I had lots
of days in the mountains where my thoughts where just focused on the next sip
of water running down my throat.
Here in the
middle of the desert our water reserves where the biggest treasure. Water is
life, and we had a easy life with our recourses. Imagine the natives living in these
canyons for hundred’s of years is just mind blowing.
dead no life at least no “warm blooded” life. I was wrong.
Rabbit’s, Turkeys, Coyote’s, Flowers in fresh colours I didn´t expected that
variety of life, it was everywhere.
somehow vulnerable and stupid because of my lack for basic survival knowledge.
I am a climber, I visit remote places, know how to survive in the mountains. But
I don´t know where to get water and food out of the desert because nowadays
there is no need to learn these skills.
reminds me that we our society is running more and more in an addiction where
organizing food from mother earth is almost impossible even the theoretical
thought is not there because everything is available all day. We life in a
organized and structured environment. It´s a big advantage yes but on the other
hand we are addicted. And this was what I felt the most while climbing in the
sandstone cracks in Utah, think everyone knows it or at least has seen some
pictures of the area, clear and CLEAN lines, powerfull, sustained,
crackclimbing. Stemming, jamming and yes liebaking, it´s somehow a European
thing ;) but it works soooo well.
tons of cracks from offwidths to tips, my personal suffer size was an open
green to a closed red placement. After some time I focused on this size of
crack to learn how to jam, move fast and economic with “Ringlocks”.
ask me about the suffering on this type of climbing, the pain.The pain oh yes it´s there it´s part of
crackclimbing but while climbing I forget the pain I feel free I am in a flow.
morning swollen hands almost impossible to close. Sand everywhere, rattlesnakes
and massive whole body pumps.