tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-79414486293430063772024-03-18T20:37:55.131-07:00AlexLugerClimbing.....rock.....alpine.....life.....Alex Lugerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01364069330539902885noreply@blogger.comBlogger39125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7941448629343006377.post-69488479755997521422016-04-27T01:22:00.002-07:002016-04-27T01:24:45.961-07:00NEW WEBSITE TO SHARE MY ADVENTURES: https://alex-luger.com <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://alex-luger.com/"> https://alex-luger.com</a></h2>
Alex Lugerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01364069330539902885noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7941448629343006377.post-89776521467551033222015-07-06T05:42:00.000-07:002015-07-06T05:42:35.801-07:00Training - First Ascent - North Face
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjqoCYLhzXbmelVXgvw29ey731xdrmgzrv7QaDig4OWUVthWnPQ8bjEYfawPXbYMlDD09tmcNKnhAOVgvg0bTx4loArwyuNc8hrlAPFN2QbUAP4TNiOKcCNhiXoojGdnfYqJuHzShwMl0/s1600/IMG_2246.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjqoCYLhzXbmelVXgvw29ey731xdrmgzrv7QaDig4OWUVthWnPQ8bjEYfawPXbYMlDD09tmcNKnhAOVgvg0bTx4loArwyuNc8hrlAPFN2QbUAP4TNiOKcCNhiXoojGdnfYqJuHzShwMl0/s640/IMG_2246.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hanno on the cruxpitch of Land ohne Herren, Titlis north face, soooooo steep</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">After the
winter season with some cool steep skiing I spent some weeks in Valle dell
Orco. I visited the valley for the first time and enjoyed some of the classics
and high quality variations on Caporal and Sergent. Bernd introduced me to the owners
from the Ristorante Gran Paradiso at Noasca and it was like I would visit the
place already for years. The people are very friendly and the food they offer
is just amazing. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">To visit
the valley for multipitch climbing or bouldering is highly recommended. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ1XexSpnOMDQ_UhirghAsI6cF5NdnEpmeMnS-loBT2fEMX1Za6qIOnAc-MXftYhEa9ZPPPGlNc_J9zsaQbWQ1ngKvt6AKVoy8lSYcR9wYedrTEOJa0Cd1FVypuVjBDePdJje2KU4hKA4/s1600/IMG_1876.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ1XexSpnOMDQ_UhirghAsI6cF5NdnEpmeMnS-loBT2fEMX1Za6qIOnAc-MXftYhEa9ZPPPGlNc_J9zsaQbWQ1ngKvt6AKVoy8lSYcR9wYedrTEOJa0Cd1FVypuVjBDePdJje2KU4hKA4/s400/IMG_1876.jpg" width="388" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A very exclusive ride on the west face of the Rote Wand, Lechquellengebirg, skiing direct from the highest point on the picture down some cool terrain..... so much fun : )</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggtWYfsbPP7287oDSbyCIfQ7_ZnNm0z6ytd52GRd-CDquesrDNrqtozFZMTh6MBjf7ToRcsT1tx_x2zTFnLMlSLaChReRHE8H-EAQ8lSLu_mKacf013oiPgooWnUvM5NJ0SN0GOCTlB2o/s1600/IMG_2016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggtWYfsbPP7287oDSbyCIfQ7_ZnNm0z6ytd52GRd-CDquesrDNrqtozFZMTh6MBjf7ToRcsT1tx_x2zTFnLMlSLaChReRHE8H-EAQ8lSLu_mKacf013oiPgooWnUvM5NJ0SN0GOCTlB2o/s400/IMG_2016.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Valle dell Paradiso ähh Orco, Noasca</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_vkrkRtI8yccUSfpgABc8rDERbO1D4wmURrneF-eKCnOkvhPc4QPcgTdkakYEMkQbWjsOZ2cNMzLjZJv4Q3HorO6Y5SCX6A0zUXcmfjsGULUZk6b44jEW_sHhE4rUhxaVvpLB3IzM9iA/s1600/RD_150502_ORCO_1501.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_vkrkRtI8yccUSfpgABc8rDERbO1D4wmURrneF-eKCnOkvhPc4QPcgTdkakYEMkQbWjsOZ2cNMzLjZJv4Q3HorO6Y5SCX6A0zUXcmfjsGULUZk6b44jEW_sHhE4rUhxaVvpLB3IzM9iA/s400/RD_150502_ORCO_1501.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kostelic Crack on a short weather window, Bernd Zangerl inspecting my jamming qualities</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbYPwfiUZaTWi4okhpj60KG7nx3IOrLw4pM_wiVh9MDtZ1t9zJZS28jk49ISkWFr_lgARAcUnpFH1K5tFUucwi-Q62ctwvYk6qEh7A58tw9WaoiaoxYK5lsd9Jh59JfX6q3D2QFvd6Uh0/s1600/RD_150502_ORCO_1723.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbYPwfiUZaTWi4okhpj60KG7nx3IOrLw4pM_wiVh9MDtZ1t9zJZS28jk49ISkWFr_lgARAcUnpFH1K5tFUucwi-Q62ctwvYk6qEh7A58tw9WaoiaoxYK5lsd9Jh59JfX6q3D2QFvd6Uh0/s400/RD_150502_ORCO_1723.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close up by the one and only Ray Demski on a cool boulder opened by Zangerl B., Noasca</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">From the
superb granite of Orco I spent some training time at Voralpsee and on the
campus board in sight of my multi pitch project in the Rätikon. I finished the
route last summer but couldn´t redpoint all pitches in one day due to other
travels and early snow…… </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">This season I had already two good days in the project and hopefully the wall is dry after the
forecasted thunderstorms to give it another go!</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjgsY-WC3tNDwkk6enMLfoyP43hzRy2fPRbRqHruyR0plldfEU02Hf8BiK1vKLTqSvIv6FAFIvWgucwQmK9lEnuPwLWZ2PW45J53POgvgLbRTDcJlYw90g3r8rfcScgHVGuW_oMPgnulE/s1600/IMG_2079.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjgsY-WC3tNDwkk6enMLfoyP43hzRy2fPRbRqHruyR0plldfEU02Hf8BiK1vKLTqSvIv6FAFIvWgucwQmK9lEnuPwLWZ2PW45J53POgvgLbRTDcJlYw90g3r8rfcScgHVGuW_oMPgnulE/s400/IMG_2079.jpg" width="201" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crimping, crimping,cimping! Speed, Voralpsee</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOwNImcG2YcEO3aLI2-EEWW4_5SwC7W2EdrlSKEPUXG0F4UQeGjCzfYh14HkTW6uF8WGZSGIJGV-TZczIq3tf5FZ9yJ1BYc-S4MjJmC9ZyCzDowOKDRyBzNLDeKwtTdCnSMO8MJSrAKLQ/s1600/IMG_2083.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOwNImcG2YcEO3aLI2-EEWW4_5SwC7W2EdrlSKEPUXG0F4UQeGjCzfYh14HkTW6uF8WGZSGIJGV-TZczIq3tf5FZ9yJ1BYc-S4MjJmC9ZyCzDowOKDRyBzNLDeKwtTdCnSMO8MJSrAKLQ/s400/IMG_2083.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The last
weekend was way too hot and Hanno and I wanted to hang around in a north face
higher up. The Eiger north face still had too much snow and conditions on the
long routes looked wet?! So we decided to visit the north face of Titlis. We
did the “Land ohne Herren” (7c, 10pitches, bolted) and I could on sight the
route with a 6a and two 6c led by Hanno so not a real on sight </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Wingdings; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Cambria; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-char-type: symbol; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">: )</span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">. What a nice and steeeeeeeep climb!
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXAVcajfs10BktoFpbNLAY30RD4dVfdDaYlswaGSqZnFjuG5W33NhZKhWbJnnMTscL-ZESrYCLpsENItCtzNuTi9sDDE_eEHYni8jJ6M7SMOyUXpt1kNk2-2Q2basuMecssJx5wjS-o7M/s1600/IMG_2212.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXAVcajfs10BktoFpbNLAY30RD4dVfdDaYlswaGSqZnFjuG5W33NhZKhWbJnnMTscL-ZESrYCLpsENItCtzNuTi9sDDE_eEHYni8jJ6M7SMOyUXpt1kNk2-2Q2basuMecssJx5wjS-o7M/s400/IMG_2212.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hanno on the approach, it´s 6.30 am, the superb wall in the background. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil_AfBiOMrv42yBM2JdVwr5ubv17hgElfkxa3lXAfg_WMCnGrlKidob4gyuLiNGjjjbrt6B1jyRJspYKl3mkEZFVeai8y_ITq_tdoQD915Svg5UN0z6h5fUYSKmsz2tyFyaxIcgm4_Mrw/s1600/IMG_2228.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil_AfBiOMrv42yBM2JdVwr5ubv17hgElfkxa3lXAfg_WMCnGrlKidob4gyuLiNGjjjbrt6B1jyRJspYKl3mkEZFVeai8y_ITq_tdoQD915Svg5UN0z6h5fUYSKmsz2tyFyaxIcgm4_Mrw/s400/IMG_2228.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cruxpitch, so steep but crazy good holds what a route!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7FvSBoth4emXH-27BtRTnqGEEAl-l24otAePK61AjFVMO-TYOkgixRo6MbYG-A4fn3q9NV78JdquBeL3zV2crq-g7k0EnV4a_jxENi69D-JFMMOujVFz1F2jGCOzw7lJdTSsWQi5Scnw/s1600/IMG_2233.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7FvSBoth4emXH-27BtRTnqGEEAl-l24otAePK61AjFVMO-TYOkgixRo6MbYG-A4fn3q9NV78JdquBeL3zV2crq-g7k0EnV4a_jxENi69D-JFMMOujVFz1F2jGCOzw7lJdTSsWQi5Scnw/s400/IMG_2233.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steep!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdK6JndNowbLSPRuClTR99EfmWNvT3rn2c7WTrFw7hb8x41PZSS5R4HHyT8-Y97gfBuqb-h6y77fKt4TFYc-gvgA7Dl7EI-pqWdXkBkAJMGuFlmzNjiqhyphenhyphen3xYRX-QW0T2wIPL1KuV6tZ8/s1600/IMG_2263.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdK6JndNowbLSPRuClTR99EfmWNvT3rn2c7WTrFw7hb8x41PZSS5R4HHyT8-Y97gfBuqb-h6y77fKt4TFYc-gvgA7Dl7EI-pqWdXkBkAJMGuFlmzNjiqhyphenhyphen3xYRX-QW0T2wIPL1KuV6tZ8/s400/IMG_2263.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hanno following</td></tr>
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Alex Lugerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01364069330539902885noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7941448629343006377.post-48143121438271737192015-03-24T01:54:00.001-07:002015-03-26T08:58:07.823-07:00 Dru North Couloir Direct <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnD_iPBwXl-R9Vlh48fd6mDg48ODD5GmigwuO1HGlKSxz5mUvQ70xoXTEoM88OEaPUDSenUFGO6vTbxU9_KTTF_Nc5NmC6nrPHm2L8uhQMjReGF-3jlfrhBMLOC0cfqHIb5b2_unb_BPA/s1600/P3200032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnD_iPBwXl-R9Vlh48fd6mDg48ODD5GmigwuO1HGlKSxz5mUvQ70xoXTEoM88OEaPUDSenUFGO6vTbxU9_KTTF_Nc5NmC6nrPHm2L8uhQMjReGF-3jlfrhBMLOC0cfqHIb5b2_unb_BPA/s1600/P3200032.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The overhanging crux dihedral on the direct with a solid grown ice finish</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinmr7W94tvHodd65RNeMBf_RJglk54LIzqqphSN98zv7jFO9h0rHDTSX9JlTNJcYK5ibxpnl8mkYd4ZeSffPfy7lr8Chu6FPWE5bbY0ZqhbmsjHx4YzyBoJakmdJ6vuvScvIzG_9OhcGo/s1600/P3190003.jpg" height="640" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="480" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The obvious upper part of the couloir that splits the Grand from the Petit Dru. The Finish of the cruxpitch is wehere the ice is running out into dry rock low left in the picture. The lower part of the couloir is not visible.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinmr7W94tvHodd65RNeMBf_RJglk54LIzqqphSN98zv7jFO9h0rHDTSX9JlTNJcYK5ibxpnl8mkYd4ZeSffPfy7lr8Chu6FPWE5bbY0ZqhbmsjHx4YzyBoJakmdJ6vuvScvIzG_9OhcGo/s1600/P3190003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Hanno and I
where driving through Switzerland and discussed what we should climb in Chamonix.
A few hours before our departure I had a chat with Chamonix local Jack Gerdald
and he recommended the North Couloir Direct of the Dru. It was easy to convince
Hanno for this climb. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The
following day we took our climbing stuff some bivi equipment and our skis up
the Grand Montets cable car. We stashed the skis near the top station and changed the skiboots with our mountain boots. After 1.5h approach we reached a nice flat area
below the Dru where we prepared our bivi and melted some snow for tea and
dinner. At 5 o´clock in the morning we started hiking up to the start of the
couloir and simul- climbed the first 300 meters of the couloir until we reached
the start of the Direct. After 3 long and sustained pitches on best Chamonix
rock and mixed terrain we reached again easier terrain. We had some spindrift
on these pitches because it was snowing out of a big cloud stuck around the
Dru. Hanno had some problems with too tight boots but we have a slogan: Everything has an end! And after the last 300 meters which we climbed in 2 or 3 pitches we reached the col
between Petit and Grand Dru around 12 o’clock. Sitting there in the only sun
rises of that day the wind was building up and Mont Blanc was already covered
in clouds. After a bar and some sips of tea we started rappelling. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Thanks to Jack
and Nick for the solid abalakov abseils I own you some beers. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We reached
our bivi at 3 o´clock and walked back to the Grand Montets station for some fun
skiing with heavy packs. Beer and a nice dinner in sight. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">What a cool
day out there.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvYmPSSkznvaSUPvpEVV-pbNAx0XhLr8eQO_6CFelfhYtbflqlsZcHdorPmICyhzB_x8gYh3LZNM8kz8s1CFIp1RLt6BHqmW1enFyuJMzSXRWs2SODFJ2WHbOCaJZtcF2-2Z6pwSIK28k/s1600/P3190005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvYmPSSkznvaSUPvpEVV-pbNAx0XhLr8eQO_6CFelfhYtbflqlsZcHdorPmICyhzB_x8gYh3LZNM8kz8s1CFIp1RLt6BHqmW1enFyuJMzSXRWs2SODFJ2WHbOCaJZtcF2-2Z6pwSIK28k/s1600/P3190005.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the approach day with perfect weather and a amazing view on the range</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6WIvz-DL5HvAKwhc-QQP2wSqKi0S_kFq5Wgl2464FA3srILfLCOe7ERp0mk8LDn2VHh_KQjrjnuMk1sa5k8D-WhpWcIhUNWN9SmrAYOJ6OWTRxg1SIFV8IyS3_s8UveipZje7zlRmITs/s1600/P3190006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6WIvz-DL5HvAKwhc-QQP2wSqKi0S_kFq5Wgl2464FA3srILfLCOe7ERp0mk8LDn2VHh_KQjrjnuMk1sa5k8D-WhpWcIhUNWN9SmrAYOJ6OWTRxg1SIFV8IyS3_s8UveipZje7zlRmITs/s1600/P3190006.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Perfect bivi spot.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRL_-1geoXO9sYbOzTD6K4UAdV9AqgcHZKqyRPwGKzVYVHYqSGLZ1nzWA6hYei1TVarvn-VV6QlbJeZgN_XNpp1snIyBK0eOGpTfiCvkyKuZ_i08LAzJqhlBGfZgH72v_OelPTnCTPGmI/s1600/P3190008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRL_-1geoXO9sYbOzTD6K4UAdV9AqgcHZKqyRPwGKzVYVHYqSGLZ1nzWA6hYei1TVarvn-VV6QlbJeZgN_XNpp1snIyBK0eOGpTfiCvkyKuZ_i08LAzJqhlBGfZgH72v_OelPTnCTPGmI/s1600/P3190008.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">some posing........ </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizubThLY02t_iolzznWcmbOUslVaObIOcZM8a2ItFtAonlqCuQGC1jRR2n2mtyXZn2fUsGmgEdWn0O4usdlF8UJ23AvuAiWtMtGVOVn9nwc_5UUwoCvgEt3s0Bhf0Yxqkjc3CxwHoV4yU/s1600/P3190012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizubThLY02t_iolzznWcmbOUslVaObIOcZM8a2ItFtAonlqCuQGC1jRR2n2mtyXZn2fUsGmgEdWn0O4usdlF8UJ23AvuAiWtMtGVOVn9nwc_5UUwoCvgEt3s0Bhf0Yxqkjc3CxwHoV4yU/s1600/P3190012.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Already in bed catching some sleep before the action.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg36XY4NzwURJ6vUqIO2U0OX22Lv9QAG8iLlrD9GRLqvOsYuKtWhH5oqHlFydnhDk2kBrFAup68OlKic17wO1FdjYn2kFRZa00qUk-yBer0oWKDKqsX1XZnqQs-lucANksxxZj8-w0Xzq0/s1600/P3200018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg36XY4NzwURJ6vUqIO2U0OX22Lv9QAG8iLlrD9GRLqvOsYuKtWhH5oqHlFydnhDk2kBrFAup68OlKic17wO1FdjYn2kFRZa00qUk-yBer0oWKDKqsX1XZnqQs-lucANksxxZj8-w0Xzq0/s1600/P3200018.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simulclimbing on the lower part of the couloir</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbgktXl7cN1JJtS5kuSqo8QOMpTyaAOWaCk7z0zmKIy7BozAm8LGJTnxIXk0El6MAwqzFelECkBOwQyHgUygsfA_MUtyNKN4Y5CcAgd8y4LePkXzMh8hCyzgIe0YAyMJRKu_gCBAhyeJA/s1600/P3200023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbgktXl7cN1JJtS5kuSqo8QOMpTyaAOWaCk7z0zmKIy7BozAm8LGJTnxIXk0El6MAwqzFelECkBOwQyHgUygsfA_MUtyNKN4Y5CcAgd8y4LePkXzMh8hCyzgIe0YAyMJRKu_gCBAhyeJA/s1600/P3200023.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not the best weather but excited for the following pitches</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdbhMRtu2SDl7mFTox-ei-VXMJJtlxcsYz3O7ILzZ6dQiFEPhKPZjyh81cqE8c0PaApy20t5rt2wFA8Gelle2p2E-Wgb5RWog3n7inwicBEFE5N2iamw60HHQlHVOyJKvb2A3HgBy_6AE/s1600/P3200026.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdbhMRtu2SDl7mFTox-ei-VXMJJtlxcsYz3O7ILzZ6dQiFEPhKPZjyh81cqE8c0PaApy20t5rt2wFA8Gelle2p2E-Wgb5RWog3n7inwicBEFE5N2iamw60HHQlHVOyJKvb2A3HgBy_6AE/s1600/P3200026.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Starting into the crux corner</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOXnBEHcQi6QoDqNAMBmZN6TrYot-3RKLJ_CBlh8R0tmksP-0Mz1Y7bd_4I44EL0XhBkIFLC64fSyOiXXCihwtmk3yBYNsUTf2k397yuunUgoInjNuRxG32GgwLq951aP3RJsZ3bmb6w0/s1600/P3200028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOXnBEHcQi6QoDqNAMBmZN6TrYot-3RKLJ_CBlh8R0tmksP-0Mz1Y7bd_4I44EL0XhBkIFLC64fSyOiXXCihwtmk3yBYNsUTf2k397yuunUgoInjNuRxG32GgwLq951aP3RJsZ3bmb6w0/s1600/P3200028.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The cruxpitch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMUifSu8b4278rsd5t96Jmab0OrcY6OypeDD3Z6QGFBTWq6Q_ABWnRJKY_PYHR8fkAt7oAb9LvJjlXf7BoW8tkDUkAplyCicsUR1QH1Shrlf3JNDnt8FYD5nq_GrkfFjd5rMNYUZmCOMA/s1600/P3200035.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMUifSu8b4278rsd5t96Jmab0OrcY6OypeDD3Z6QGFBTWq6Q_ABWnRJKY_PYHR8fkAt7oAb9LvJjlXf7BoW8tkDUkAplyCicsUR1QH1Shrlf3JNDnt8FYD5nq_GrkfFjd5rMNYUZmCOMA/s1600/P3200035.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Good protection, perfect rock, crazy exposure.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXsENNgqS3Su63oqj9k4rj4e5d98EQr8bbnsFBb4LSf_vKQxGQ3US5WKE0Ji9U64_TKsCJZL7Jxh6J9ESyj3QtWqrsYdKXZVQg6VEEnIBaRtaQ_m070hsbQAI2ztQ09AiWscXEkhLY-FA/s1600/P3200041.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXsENNgqS3Su63oqj9k4rj4e5d98EQr8bbnsFBb4LSf_vKQxGQ3US5WKE0Ji9U64_TKsCJZL7Jxh6J9ESyj3QtWqrsYdKXZVQg6VEEnIBaRtaQ_m070hsbQAI2ztQ09AiWscXEkhLY-FA/s1600/P3200041.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghssasrjgLbBE1NO0arawoNziT-4sAJuTmtiW5XaFTUlb-QxmRsypaI1H_dgGuBaLakkBLkgWxOFHJiDDC-jolzQ1xu_CdWLDrtCU-D5Tkpsd5WDEcH2qhsyhwgGkPCYBS3JQd34yt9XA/s1600/P3200046.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghssasrjgLbBE1NO0arawoNziT-4sAJuTmtiW5XaFTUlb-QxmRsypaI1H_dgGuBaLakkBLkgWxOFHJiDDC-jolzQ1xu_CdWLDrtCU-D5Tkpsd5WDEcH2qhsyhwgGkPCYBS3JQd34yt9XA/s1600/P3200046.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Good but loooooong ice until the top of the col. Hanno had a fight with his too tight boots.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFz7Z_064TyuTQHqW8A1XJKiBGThklak01Ztf9rN-yNR0uXl7QU8SGMlRxSGJqTinKPBni1cYHoOF5uaHlp5zHL98lJ8REwZyEBNIZVHOlEtGRVo9IhmQPn732Wc_FH1sivcGkZnar3PQ/s1600/P3200049.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFz7Z_064TyuTQHqW8A1XJKiBGThklak01Ztf9rN-yNR0uXl7QU8SGMlRxSGJqTinKPBni1cYHoOF5uaHlp5zHL98lJ8REwZyEBNIZVHOlEtGRVo9IhmQPn732Wc_FH1sivcGkZnar3PQ/s1600/P3200049.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hanno at the col with the first food of the day yeah!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw-SuhDwoAVf44ehdIUeQehYaj-XBxAIo1akeJVVrMXOxNhWhBoMWTy-bDn1w39ff7XXTd5weNMPBYqmYqYrLU8R201DFo9Ksos1Af76fZZipgymrhEQ_Hy5j4AJpY2Cb2ie9Qn-jabgo/s1600/P3200047.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw-SuhDwoAVf44ehdIUeQehYaj-XBxAIo1akeJVVrMXOxNhWhBoMWTy-bDn1w39ff7XXTd5weNMPBYqmYqYrLU8R201DFo9Ksos1Af76fZZipgymrhEQ_Hy5j4AJpY2Cb2ie9Qn-jabgo/s1600/P3200047.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The well earned bars</td></tr>
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<br />Alex Lugerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01364069330539902885noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7941448629343006377.post-35802735725066671842015-03-02T04:27:00.001-08:002015-03-02T05:58:01.848-08:00Two First Ascents at the Averstal / Learning Lessons <style>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIlKoMDnzohlw8AaydBExP-t86subhWPE6-C7SmDmtwDpO9Ke_DCT4QUtBk5MnWFTG7F6BMsGSKNh7aQ7XSOpc3jOrvfEgO-T1vMT60_PEuLhWTHpWUmmc777xBRMyFZWPq9URP523hk8/s1600/P2040458.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIlKoMDnzohlw8AaydBExP-t86subhWPE6-C7SmDmtwDpO9Ke_DCT4QUtBk5MnWFTG7F6BMsGSKNh7aQ7XSOpc3jOrvfEgO-T1vMT60_PEuLhWTHpWUmmc777xBRMyFZWPq9URP523hk8/s1600/P2040458.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After some crazy bouldermoves I was able to reach the ice on the first ascent of "Piece Of Mind"</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A spicy repeat of "Marilyn Manson" (220m, M7+, WI6+) on the 8th of February with Hannes Kanonier</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Hmm ok
where should I start, it´s some time ago since my last post on this blog and
there is a reason why?</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">I was busy with
the thing I love! Climbing! Climbing in the alpine on rock snow and ice. Just
being out there I feel happy.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">After a
very hard alpine summer where I was working on my project in the Rätikon (bailed
very close to finish it) the snow arrived too early and I had to abandon the
project. But there is always a next summer and I will try again as hard as I
can to complete this dream. That’s for sure. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">In November
I visited the Canyon Lands National Park in Utah for some very adventurous
sandstone tower climbing. Our team was confronted with all kinds of rock from
super solid to super dirt climbing and we enjoyed it to say the least. Bruises,
cuts, broken bones and dehydration that’s the dess aka desert. A more detailed
report will follow on this blog.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">After the
return, the backs of my hands were still dump for a view weeks…. While waiting
for the winter and the cold I spent some time in the Ticino where we did lot´s
of sport climbing. I was very keen to explore Ticino from a total different
approach as I did it for the last 10 year with bouldering. There are some 1th
class crags with super cool routes on very good rock.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieJ1wvP3OYShdvTIrVMhoQzh0DDgB3E4QALjDRWkJ-vNMQUOxxmOenz0KPQPJ1MolYszfs_nfiLja7YMHleJ3ByfU_DbYMsGDYuHiAvWzkEr15OiAm2cIEw02gr-hs0XB4IW-uZr7YzRo/s1600/IMG_1328_1024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieJ1wvP3OYShdvTIrVMhoQzh0DDgB3E4QALjDRWkJ-vNMQUOxxmOenz0KPQPJ1MolYszfs_nfiLja7YMHleJ3ByfU_DbYMsGDYuHiAvWzkEr15OiAm2cIEw02gr-hs0XB4IW-uZr7YzRo/s1600/IMG_1328_1024.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The classic Thron (WI 5) at the Averstal with Jacopo Larcher</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Winter
finally arrived and we started the ice-climbing season at the 6<sup>th</sup> of
January with the obligatory Thron (WI5) at the Averstal in 2h base to base. Two
days later I started up with Wolfgang for a nice icefall at Zillis (Swiss) but in ice-climbing it´s a bad combination if the motivation is high and the
temperatures too : ). </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">So we ended
up abseiling from two Abalakovs because the ice was thin and water behind it. For
the last rappel we slinged a small tree. I was not connected to it and when Wolfi
rappelled over the edge the tree started moving out of the ground. I
immediately jumped around the tree and hold it back with all my strength until
Wolfi was safely at the ground. He was wondering when I pulled up the rope
again and lowered from a more thrust full belay. When I reached Wolfi I just
said: ”Don´t ask what happened you don’t want to know!</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">After a
more detailed inspection I realised that the tree was more frozen to the dirt
and not very well connected with it´s roots to the ground. Check your abseils
properly. </span></div>
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<u><b><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Two first ascent in the Val Ferrera</span></b></u></div>
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<b><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“The Winners loose it all some Day” (WI5/ M6
X/ 300m/ clean)</span></b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkOvAi4OrN_pWtKc4uTML7xXQDJaCgPhBskxgkQ-qZRWZ3S0hphNGhx8D8S242X_jT1qouiuJG1cg9ICFesvuav1uDaIdWkVlMU9BqqR5_X3L3NMp_EfWTS3BApiG5Qb5DmaAbL4jNWWo/s1600/IMG_1478.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkOvAi4OrN_pWtKc4uTML7xXQDJaCgPhBskxgkQ-qZRWZ3S0hphNGhx8D8S242X_jT1qouiuJG1cg9ICFesvuav1uDaIdWkVlMU9BqqR5_X3L3NMp_EfWTS3BApiG5Qb5DmaAbL4jNWWo/s1600/IMG_1478.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The amazing and conciliatory ice pitch after the very loose rock pitches below. On "The Winner Losse It All Some Day"</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">After me
and Hanno soloed the “Rotes Vergissmeinnicht “ (WI4+/ 140m) at the Val Fererra,
we spotted a crazy looking yellow ice formation hanging in a big overhang just
on the opposite side of the small village Ausserferrera. After a view days we
returned to try this idea. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The first
200m are easy mixed terrain on snow rock and some vegetation. Then we climbed a
traverse to the left that was very loose and overhanging with almost no
protection. We climbed this traverse in a big 80 meter pitch. Then the rock gets
little better and we continued over huge blocks stacked together to reach the
start of the ice. We climbed the yellow hanging icicles in one pitch with moderate
difficulty. “The Winners loose it all some Day” (WI5/ M6 X/ 300m/ clean). We
left no traces on the climb and took all the gear with us we used for
protection despite the slings we used for rappelling. Here is a topo for the
archive. It´s hard to recommend the route because of it s very loose rock
flakes on the travers pitch. So it´s maybe a good adventure for the lovers of
the loose.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisbMh1ZqqX-XzeW5VavuyzAc3QR8q0WaVV9mC51ySDhWScw0nyu83CoikhRsFrGXg51gM-ylWDywvhaMycD7eL2CbW4MPXzTYBbISMARqvN4lQ9MOwe0X0y1yketkv2uRF_iWNIn6gdNs/s1600/IMG_1457.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisbMh1ZqqX-XzeW5VavuyzAc3QR8q0WaVV9mC51ySDhWScw0nyu83CoikhRsFrGXg51gM-ylWDywvhaMycD7eL2CbW4MPXzTYBbISMARqvN4lQ9MOwe0X0y1yketkv2uRF_iWNIn6gdNs/s1600/IMG_1457.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hanno reaching the belay of the start into the ice pitch on The Winner......</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0hK_6sg25QjB7H0q0LtKeKRykQFKjFOmbQ0v64BNOvA-PjqbOAmSi_bv3Dqw0Oe3TUZRNc7UfSKBvM6SNEwhdtf-mjBX9KKGZ2IhQXm2HFURa-ASEtqdZ4zuPpcLRxcQF_PO5B6FNBr0/s1600/topo_the_winnercrop+Kopie.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0hK_6sg25QjB7H0q0LtKeKRykQFKjFOmbQ0v64BNOvA-PjqbOAmSi_bv3Dqw0Oe3TUZRNc7UfSKBvM6SNEwhdtf-mjBX9KKGZ2IhQXm2HFURa-ASEtqdZ4zuPpcLRxcQF_PO5B6FNBr0/s1600/topo_the_winnercrop+Kopie.jpg" height="400" width="386" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Topo "The Winners Loose It All Some Day"</td></tr>
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<b><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">“Piece Of
Mind” (WI5+/ M6/ 250m/ clean)</span></b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgeVZd_Fs2lYUyNmnNKN7O4Db6RAN6GB_aBUXyvqDJB5pQ0OyvPWa65jeXmNJpFCYmfgtPBIE52Z9UcM7Wo-bMdG2SU06hDrc9k0GIrmilwczQKwN4iQk_bb4daJ6C7nHORKllLY-gGq8/s1600/P2040452.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgeVZd_Fs2lYUyNmnNKN7O4Db6RAN6GB_aBUXyvqDJB5pQ0OyvPWa65jeXmNJpFCYmfgtPBIE52Z9UcM7Wo-bMdG2SU06hDrc9k0GIrmilwczQKwN4iQk_bb4daJ6C7nHORKllLY-gGq8/s1600/P2040452.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Working my way up the very hollow ice, no screws allowed!!</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">On this
climb we had a close call. In 15 years of climbing you get your routine, your
speed, and most important your experience. I had close calls in my climbing
life and most of them happened because of a misinterpretation of conditions or
that it simply is not what you expected it to be. On clean climbing these
misinterpretations can be fatal. I am aware about this fact and very conscious how
I behave in the mountains. These close call situations have the character of an
accident. You don´t calculate with. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">It was
Hanno´s first whipper in such alpine terrain on ice and he is climbing now for 30
years. We had luck that both of us stayed unharmed. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">After this
wake up call there was still enough ice so that we still could climb the pitch.
Followed by a moderate mixed pitch we reached the hanging icicles where we
thought would be the crux of this first ascent but with some bouldery moves on
nice granite we reached the ice and topped out.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">This first
ascent is a really nice climb with a big versatility from nice ice climbing to
mixed climbing on solid granite high above the Val Fererra. A route I can
recommend. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We realised
this first ascent in clean style. No fixed gear in the whole wall! </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"> </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Keep this
climb clean and save your gear for following adventures!</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Wingdings; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Cambria; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-char-type: symbol; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB0wdqaowby5gt7VaCQJugSs_zU4hyphenhyphenwHpsN2TctcF7exsWDQBpqewBkpKUieq42yqI34XGQ1Axp8CHRzv-AD9aTD7HuoqxQz9OiOwO0EpwzkqALbivYFgSaeIdD3vjFsSma6JSKHhCl1M/s1600/P2040451.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB0wdqaowby5gt7VaCQJugSs_zU4hyphenhyphenwHpsN2TctcF7exsWDQBpqewBkpKUieq42yqI34XGQ1Axp8CHRzv-AD9aTD7HuoqxQz9OiOwO0EpwzkqALbivYFgSaeIdD3vjFsSma6JSKHhCl1M/s1600/P2040451.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bildunterschrift hinzufügen</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hanno on the last 20 meters of snowslab climbing on the crux pitch of "Piece Of Mind" </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hanno a good friend and reliable climbingpartner </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The big question? Can we get to the hanging stuff above..... "Piece Of Mind"</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Topo "Piece Of Mind"</td></tr>
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Alex Lugerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01364069330539902885noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7941448629343006377.post-40477774698153218472014-09-26T04:11:00.001-07:002014-09-26T04:43:22.572-07:00 PsychoGramm - How far can I push my clean climbing ? <style>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPgHsMWQsZfYdWKdN0GABTc_SrTw7WmpkexmNrvrT4UniLbcgLZ80NoKrkhcSJzJlaaS86MQRd21E-vYQAG9yF1ZY4DPgMsx_XTezzz9tFHimCTUjstz7aTRRtvL20t4A9VV813pjINaM/s1600/5P2C8829.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPgHsMWQsZfYdWKdN0GABTc_SrTw7WmpkexmNrvrT4UniLbcgLZ80NoKrkhcSJzJlaaS86MQRd21E-vYQAG9yF1ZY4DPgMsx_XTezzz9tFHimCTUjstz7aTRRtvL20t4A9VV813pjINaM/s1600/5P2C8829.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">pic Beat Kammerlander</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I set off,
tension, adrenalin, focus, concentrated willpower, freedom. I fall, the rope
catches me, life, relief, joy… The micro-nut has held the fall.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The Bürser
Platte in Vorarlberg - it´s climbing history resembles a roller coaster ride. From
the quarry to a „techno playground“ of artificial climbing „aka“ piton raging. Then
the sport climbing era, free and as difficult as the routes could possibly be,
but certainly safe. Then - a long time of silence around this unique wall. Up
until Beat Kammerlander had a vision in mind. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">He removed
the bolts of the only free climbing line in this plate and then climbed it clean;
there is talk of the “Prinzip Hoffnung”. With a clear “no” to a in suit protection
Beat created something new at the Bürser Platte. Free climbing, mobile protections,
that are placed while climbing, or plain „clean climbing“.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I was
fascinated early by climbing with natural protection and so it came that in
December 2009 I was able to realize the first repetition of the ”Prinzip
Hoffnung”. I felt the urge for more, looking for a new challenge.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">In the
central part of the Bürser wall there is a delicate crack which meanders up,
and completely levels off in the middle of the wall. While examining the line,
it seemed impossible to climb safely with mobile protection. During the
checkout in top rope I realized that the boulder at the end of the crack is
really hard. From ten attempts I managed the boulder only once. Bad protection,
„ground fall“ potential and a crux sequence I only succeeded every tenth time?
A simple calculation – the project was too dangerous, wherefore it was put on
ice.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">This winter
I thought a lot about walls, ice formations and mountains I wanted to try. But
after my return from the ice-rich Norway my projects didn´t grow or they were
in a ramshackle condition. So it was that I went to the Bürser plate again. The
process began anew, boldering, checking the placements …. tactics. After
several attempts I was able to connect the very uncertain sequences of movements.
I was able to make all the moves, but that was only the beginning of the
challenge to climb the route in a clean climbing style. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-gMfuMzsJParOrT3lFgja3Rr0_4-VLjOWbFxLpqqpl2nJ5meS7Mh4GfnpmAKbui-Y6JYPBFlObVdmdJ2Ud2WmRcNSZ3rt4enfiPps1zsXuo-8pg1im55Hn1AdJl6IuqAShYQXOzMUgwc/s1600/5P2C8724.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-gMfuMzsJParOrT3lFgja3Rr0_4-VLjOWbFxLpqqpl2nJ5meS7Mh4GfnpmAKbui-Y6JYPBFlObVdmdJ2Ud2WmRcNSZ3rt4enfiPps1zsXuo-8pg1im55Hn1AdJl6IuqAShYQXOzMUgwc/s1600/5P2C8724.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">pic. Beat Kammerlander</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">When I said
that I am going for the lead there was silence at the ground of the wall. My
friends Hannes and Flo, who tried to grant for my protection, took themselves
back.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The energy
surrounding us was palpable. Tension, then concentration. I felt my willingness
to give absolutely everything I have, but still to act differentiated, also to
decide conscious.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">A
compilation of all experiences and sequences of motions to a point – here and
now. I´m ready.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">There were
three more falls until I climbed Psychogramm red point. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Alex Luger</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Filmed and produced by Beat Kammerlander. Beat followed my process trying to clean climb this crazy line with his camera, so all the shots are real and the climbingshots were took during my three tries and on the fourth when I sent it. The movie is more a documentary than a climbing porn. It´s more than just a hard moves and chalking.....</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Enjoy it.</span></div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/O39uijVdrN0?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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Alex Lugerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01364069330539902885noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7941448629343006377.post-78661907854296331502014-09-19T01:09:00.000-07:002014-09-19T01:09:00.262-07:00Sangre de Toro on the cover of the new Vorarlberg Alpine Guidebook by Panico<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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All my first ascents at the Rote Wand are now featured in the new alpine guide and much more nice routes and walls of our region. <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6b6Pfywi1QNRJL28QblySTLon5Zv5Li6qXLFWM3nsGzAZ5cWofnfvRIQJjTJHJYLH-Kg0o1bnC5CrEb6lPWW794tLt-5mSbR4hyFP1BLq-Pavys130g5xFZWTAFYOKkLaOkbjfbHFHkM/s1600/kletterfuehrer-vorarlberg-9783956110245.jpg" height="640" width="640" /><a href="http://www.panico.de/alpinkletterfuehrer-vorarlberg.html">http://www.panico.de/alpinkletterfuehrer-vorarlberg.html</a></div>
<br />Alex Lugerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01364069330539902885noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7941448629343006377.post-27477977948591780602014-09-15T02:59:00.003-07:002014-09-15T02:59:38.735-07:00Exposure and the First Snow....
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Fresh snow on the small glaicer autum is here. pic Alex Luger</div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">This summer
was not really a summer, in my region it rained a lot but I tried my best
to get on my new project on the rare days without rain and blizzards. I did a first
ascent on a 350+meters face with the upper headwall constantly overhanging. The
steepness of the face made the climbing into the unknown very intense because there
is not much to rest on. Now I am working on the redpoint. The day before
yesterday it snowed 20cm on the summit. Summer is really over. Hope there will
be some nice weather still to come for some quality tries on the route. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> The headwall is steep. </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFKXVz_M5FpSjbaWDDR7dnI0wrWDepl56RYtNLU-mFyX3GEK101S-KNB4-2tJtRtljxL-B3Vlyjx2V5Di-iD8mF0sO_IuDLdJbMQ0KzceJ7ILOb7-5lV-nd6ZMNvsY1yigghlbf6sH7LQ/s1600/IMG_1470.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFKXVz_M5FpSjbaWDDR7dnI0wrWDepl56RYtNLU-mFyX3GEK101S-KNB4-2tJtRtljxL-B3Vlyjx2V5Di-iD8mF0sO_IuDLdJbMQ0KzceJ7ILOb7-5lV-nd6ZMNvsY1yigghlbf6sH7LQ/s1600/IMG_1470.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> Chilling out on a small ledge befor the crux pitch.</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">All pictures Alex Luger collection. </span></span></div>
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Alex Lugerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01364069330539902885noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7941448629343006377.post-20296193242301800982014-07-21T04:36:00.000-07:002014-07-21T04:36:07.462-07:00Working on my Project....<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia9Ynon9GZqfpEsh54p2KEI764LP8MQEhQfDqm6X04NAdeOUgtiEi55zbMsJg26w2Sj9czfRJYB4HeuwBKgm2IQDHUlACCAyBRXtrCuYGyjEHv299tTaUPkbqssML87w6HW65sIT-cGcA/s1600/IMG_1285.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia9Ynon9GZqfpEsh54p2KEI764LP8MQEhQfDqm6X04NAdeOUgtiEi55zbMsJg26w2Sj9czfRJYB4HeuwBKgm2IQDHUlACCAyBRXtrCuYGyjEHv299tTaUPkbqssML87w6HW65sIT-cGcA/s1600/IMG_1285.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
During the first ascent after the cruxpitch. Copyright Alex Luger</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh56EU3-BuxCfc40j9Is9DPBtALu8tVpJozjvvUBcDci-S1AbBvpuYiECqkPBJKnQIuqGBsR4jbmbG_wAHGF0HTOAi9h3Xsd-5jGp_lI3qRlbFHhNWUHb5gDA3xS7t05K83uKfnqjEe13s/s1600/IMGP0013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh56EU3-BuxCfc40j9Is9DPBtALu8tVpJozjvvUBcDci-S1AbBvpuYiECqkPBJKnQIuqGBsR4jbmbG_wAHGF0HTOAi9h3Xsd-5jGp_lI3qRlbFHhNWUHb5gDA3xS7t05K83uKfnqjEe13s/s1600/IMGP0013.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Mentally and physically exhausting but happy days. Copyright Alex Luger</div>
Alex Lugerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01364069330539902885noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7941448629343006377.post-28909506828669993532014-07-21T03:54:00.001-07:002014-07-21T03:54:25.239-07:00The Underdog - Climax Interview Issue 21 <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii-WINQbjvQjhyphenhyphenfJZ_l2OzLyRzejTKq0gDHhdAAxYGCQqrsrV9GX9aqH2-_gb4ExWEw2TiinQo948tKa28YTTyLw4VktwFzYQVhKDS_t46D7-_MIpKC-XJCoxXCJsLJb2dYy4hUU4fSSs/s1600/Bildschirmfoto+2014-07-21+um+12.48.08.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii-WINQbjvQjhyphenhyphenfJZ_l2OzLyRzejTKq0gDHhdAAxYGCQqrsrV9GX9aqH2-_gb4ExWEw2TiinQo948tKa28YTTyLw4VktwFzYQVhKDS_t46D7-_MIpKC-XJCoxXCJsLJb2dYy4hUU4fSSs/s1600/Bildschirmfoto+2014-07-21+um+12.48.08.png" height="448" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />Alex Lugerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01364069330539902885noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7941448629343006377.post-83226619303778323692014-06-04T02:38:00.002-07:002014-06-04T02:38:58.007-07:00Aurora Borealis<div class="MsoNormal">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_x93uoVffqVWxXgvRZ724NCxhkjle5e4zF3AXJaXFlZoID42l22ZntGtMBftowyzZyXXo6wT3HUn12LZbqESWzKgEcyOGVnRWMLkScHrX-jnFGsvZmS-waPGmog4G66b2JVnO-1ZQw2Q/s1600/RD_140127_AURORAICE_1642_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_x93uoVffqVWxXgvRZ724NCxhkjle5e4zF3AXJaXFlZoID42l22ZntGtMBftowyzZyXXo6wT3HUn12LZbqESWzKgEcyOGVnRWMLkScHrX-jnFGsvZmS-waPGmog4G66b2JVnO-1ZQw2Q/s1600/RD_140127_AURORAICE_1642_F.jpg" height="422" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
pic. Ray Demski</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9RaXayMbnYXRvCdfO1Sq9GYRE05tLqV0dbU8m-x-DXttu2YQ2NV4WPO18uzDkyPhHmiKmbh9l3m1yOGGIOdTw1if9BMGu4BlfrwpbZzocMOhYrGeHIs1ORu_I7gGbwCaqjTYXsRPendA/s1600/RD_140125_AURORAICE_0663_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9RaXayMbnYXRvCdfO1Sq9GYRE05tLqV0dbU8m-x-DXttu2YQ2NV4WPO18uzDkyPhHmiKmbh9l3m1yOGGIOdTw1if9BMGu4BlfrwpbZzocMOhYrGeHIs1ORu_I7gGbwCaqjTYXsRPendA/s1600/RD_140125_AURORAICE_0663_F.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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pic Ray Demski</div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The trip to
Norway was amazing, lot´s of inspiring and wonderful ice climbing lines great
alpine climbing and a good climbing ethic. The people are very hospitably and they say
things straight out, what makes it very uncomplicated. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We have
been in the Lyngen Alps for iceclimbing and shooting aurora borealis. So the
days where quiet long, but I like the feeling of a harsh nature and the cold
with the big sleeping bag in view ;).</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We where a
nice team with Hanno Schluge, Ray Demsky, Heli Putz, Thomas Schermer and Cameron Sylvester whose kept
the spirits high even in darker times.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Hanno
Schluge and me managed to realise a cool first ascent as the locals confirmed.
The 6 pitches long route is called Stuorraniibi (Sami Knife) and we rated it WI6,
M7. The protection is clean. What I really like on this climb is that we didn´t
left any traces from our ascent. The rock is sometimes loose but with some
alpine experience you can enjoy the climb. A king line.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">So now the photo project is online with unique pictures and a short clip of the trip.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The link to the project: </span></div>
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<a href="http://redbullphotography.com/projects/norwegian-ice/"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">http://redbullphotography.com/projects/norwegian-ice/</span></a></div>
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The clip of the trip:<br />
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<a href="http://vimeo.com/93617346">http://vimeo.com/93617346 </a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinWSaal9vfBp2-x-S5FChKpdmIeKaT86tuTljTBAUWquuM6MM89ysXsGVjPG9UUmpyTyHS4701JFi6R4xVAH7Oil0eD0l4lX1ACCMfQLd09masctOalcR72tVyBuUwt202fE9mrtmmXGM/s1600/RD_140127_AURORAICE_1637_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinWSaal9vfBp2-x-S5FChKpdmIeKaT86tuTljTBAUWquuM6MM89ysXsGVjPG9UUmpyTyHS4701JFi6R4xVAH7Oil0eD0l4lX1ACCMfQLd09masctOalcR72tVyBuUwt202fE9mrtmmXGM/s1600/RD_140127_AURORAICE_1637_F.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"> Thanks to
the team for the nice time. I will be back for sure.</span></div>
Alex Lugerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01364069330539902885noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7941448629343006377.post-39750905230747004712014-05-03T13:06:00.002-07:002014-05-03T13:06:23.529-07:00On the Cover of Gripped<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizTyzF7o-Dj8sT4UKevVnzBuPd8F_y44OZJE-stNySQApJSoXLn99_iMMYTHG683S8JgCFhL_dEhEyNGHL8MObTMOcv7lKudnU86sMPZky6zNW9Hx219Exvi2HPpO-n9e9WWwYJfCGDlA/s1600/Foto(1).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizTyzF7o-Dj8sT4UKevVnzBuPd8F_y44OZJE-stNySQApJSoXLn99_iMMYTHG683S8JgCFhL_dEhEyNGHL8MObTMOcv7lKudnU86sMPZky6zNW9Hx219Exvi2HPpO-n9e9WWwYJfCGDlA/s1600/Foto(1).JPG" height="640" width="494" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-GB">Lugerhammer 8b clean
ascent, Location Indian Himalaya.</span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-GB">When I walked around this
unexplored (in climbers view) mountain range I carried always a binocular with
a monopole extension on it, from far it looked like a big hammer<span style="font-family: Wingdings;"> ; ) </span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Wingdings;"><span></span></span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"> </span></div>
Alex Lugerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01364069330539902885noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7941448629343006377.post-15758232671660193532014-04-25T12:44:00.001-07:002014-04-25T12:44:30.932-07:00Highball - Movie First Repetition of "Mainstream Fb7c+ /E8"<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/Q3tHguJTXK4?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<span id="goog_1213801816"></span><span id="goog_1213801817"></span><br />Alex Lugerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01364069330539902885noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7941448629343006377.post-73621634559673641572014-04-01T03:51:00.001-07:002014-04-01T03:51:04.688-07:00Movie "Sangre de Toro" - Rote Wand German<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/o9xVbs1jlJc?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<br />Alex Lugerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01364069330539902885noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7941448629343006377.post-20252593083980581922014-04-01T01:22:00.001-07:002014-04-01T03:51:48.754-07:00 Movie (English) and Topo of “Sangre de Toro“ <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdz5F0w3Sihyphenhyphen4Vut64iKAed9lzI-gjzPDkJw3pFAnCcayFnTjJ8oBTZ7Qj0Wxgd4IBxoOND5DkcoRAOK-KXlCh_J2DBKWTKx3lcEVO1_RMlanXhLglx_LLnPW_qditWxfxSGQ23x8V0mU/s1600/5P2C5552.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdz5F0w3Sihyphenhyphen4Vut64iKAed9lzI-gjzPDkJw3pFAnCcayFnTjJ8oBTZ7Qj0Wxgd4IBxoOND5DkcoRAOK-KXlCh_J2DBKWTKx3lcEVO1_RMlanXhLglx_LLnPW_qditWxfxSGQ23x8V0mU/s1600/5P2C5552.jpg" height="640" width="425" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Copyrights by Beat Kammerlander</div>
<br />
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Finishing a
big project has two sides; on one side there is happiness satisfaction. On the
other side something that dominates your thoughts, your feelings and your daily
routine disappears. You feel empty. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">And what is
after the emptiness? Another thing you will invest your energy, your emotions,
your thoughts. Should we call it stupid or nonsense?</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">I would
call it “the wheel of life”.</span></div>
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<br />Alex Lugerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01364069330539902885noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7941448629343006377.post-28875052724393268032014-03-18T01:04:00.000-07:002014-03-18T01:56:04.525-07:00The Cantino Brothers Trip to Bleau<style>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV1mSdfmCgyXb_BUgBuR0_ScFgK15lpnp_vd1UarSH1lA9ngw3czPLxxK-U9HCACKAdi-ZPFUKF9fUTIg2TcSBdyeaWo3hMhJKzkmo1WMl8Wm3byTa0-nd6-Rs_SLJ6hXnASL0boelPRM/s1600/IMG_1018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV1mSdfmCgyXb_BUgBuR0_ScFgK15lpnp_vd1UarSH1lA9ngw3czPLxxK-U9HCACKAdi-ZPFUKF9fUTIg2TcSBdyeaWo3hMhJKzkmo1WMl8Wm3byTa0-nd6-Rs_SLJ6hXnASL0boelPRM/s1600/IMG_1018.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"> Cantinos getting older ;)</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAHAMM6uvAZwta7B7tgNyy4DnMVcFLJQS6U3FK0rCrIvdcWb9SVqtdE3YWWYsmUa_LQiSNAaNACTzUG6DzW0m-TU6H-V4LKD9q5RzffzHWy9VWtzxalLOPnDF7ypxrw4XUc8rXXMFi9CU/s1600/IMG_1002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAHAMM6uvAZwta7B7tgNyy4DnMVcFLJQS6U3FK0rCrIvdcWb9SVqtdE3YWWYsmUa_LQiSNAaNACTzUG6DzW0m-TU6H-V4LKD9q5RzffzHWy9VWtzxalLOPnDF7ypxrw4XUc8rXXMFi9CU/s1600/IMG_1002.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
..... and with the age grows the wisdom ; )</div>
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<br />
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">No
Highballs!!!! Seems Cantino 77 and I are getting older and more wise ;)….
Actually I would call it my first “real” Bouldertrip to the area where
bouldering really makes sense. My other visits had always some spicy stuff in
it but on this trip most of the time we did some classic climbing and
parcouring just with climbing shoes and the pads left in the car. Thanks Flo
for the nice time……</span><br />
<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2AoYet3khgRtauifXPgklaX8zG4sPttFc6_6A0jeAo1uqKEOFNYd8Zcl4jTGAbpTxIGKl3u_pqBLCwtKtsXntxbAqlosKMllBwWN-EAfFMvYgahm61xnn6r_ZTI0qEzmRxj1xcgeoI1Q/s1600/IMG_0998.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2AoYet3khgRtauifXPgklaX8zG4sPttFc6_6A0jeAo1uqKEOFNYd8Zcl4jTGAbpTxIGKl3u_pqBLCwtKtsXntxbAqlosKMllBwWN-EAfFMvYgahm61xnn6r_ZTI0qEzmRxj1xcgeoI1Q/s1600/IMG_0998.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifEMVwXErDjdgie8qOUEHpgSiwkumTXiVV7y0lZckuaniBwH5wjhFIMyQ3t9wCrrxN44heFQnfSPVavmKG2vY0fVZrnaVMi3Q_t62Qyp_gaAf_11jzcyAEfunHSzFK1cvYfOzDC40mcnA/s1600/I+comme+Irun+Alex_1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifEMVwXErDjdgie8qOUEHpgSiwkumTXiVV7y0lZckuaniBwH5wjhFIMyQ3t9wCrrxN44heFQnfSPVavmKG2vY0fVZrnaVMi3Q_t62Qyp_gaAf_11jzcyAEfunHSzFK1cvYfOzDC40mcnA/s1600/I+comme+Irun+Alex_1.JPG" height="245" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-hansi-font-family: Cambria;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">I
comme Irun Fb 7c</span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibv8vgbIsTqBs6EO4FBUjFYWofNS5pnAku9CvWKifqE1eStsFuraRdA25T7rqXdSh71yO6ZnENvpUsWFCHK1bvVa-F5fye2x8VpJiBZcNNyaLbjXldvFGzpnJTeCVQlSmODy2fOrJLCJY/s1600/Hotline+Alex_1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibv8vgbIsTqBs6EO4FBUjFYWofNS5pnAku9CvWKifqE1eStsFuraRdA25T7rqXdSh71yO6ZnENvpUsWFCHK1bvVa-F5fye2x8VpJiBZcNNyaLbjXldvFGzpnJTeCVQlSmODy2fOrJLCJY/s1600/Hotline+Alex_1.JPG" height="225" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Hotline Fb 7c</div>
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<br />Alex Lugerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01364069330539902885noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7941448629343006377.post-69842582676217386212014-03-16T06:13:00.001-07:002014-03-20T05:28:10.365-07:00Eiger North Face<br />
<br />
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Götterquergang<br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">If you like
mountaineering and you live in the centre of the Alps you know the history of
the Eigernorthface and at some part you want to climb it. I always had in mind
to do it some day but never focused on it.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">After my
return from a short trip to Fontainbleau (details will follow) Hanno sent the
following message: The weather is good! I knew immediately that he is talking
about the Eiger because we wanted to climb it and as it´s in our backyard we
waited for nice conditions.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">So after my
arrival I changed the crashpad with crampons and a pair of tools.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">When we
left my girlfriend asked me if I can climb the Eiger with my fucked up
fingertips (everyone knows what I am talking about after a intense time in Bleau),
I had to smile and explained that I was quiet sure I don´t have to crimp or
pull on a sloper in bleaustyle on the north face in winter.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We planned
to do it in one day so I was concerned if my “cardial” endurance will be
enough, because this winter I did more climbing than skitouring and
mountaineering. But Hanno was quiet sure we will top out in a day. So we went
pretty light but still with a stove some food and a bivibag for worst case.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">On Friday
at 2.00 o’clock in the morning we started from the Eigergletscher station.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We choose
the option to exit out of the Stollenloch to save one hour of traversing to the
foot of the wall.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">At 3 am we
stepped out of the tunnel and started the climb. At dawn we reached the
Todesbiwak (Deathbivi) and were surprised that people still lied in their
sleepingbags. We continued up the Ramp and had a good feeling because we still
had plenty of time. As we reached the Spinne we saw two parties climbing up the
exit chimneys so we slowed down a little because we didn´t want to be in line
of the falling rock from the upper climbers. At 2 o´clock pm we reached the
summit of the Eiger after 12 hours of walking and climbing. After a short rest
we choose the decent via the west ridge following a nice ass slide down the
snowslopes of the westflank. At 4 pm we reached the Eigergletscher station. We
had some drinks to rehydrate and skied down to the car.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The
conditions in the wall are pretty dry in the moment so no wet rock at all but
on the other side not much ice either. The icefields are still in a good shape.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWr3iQ53g9fHcx981zJvI382C7d0rf5MqtvZgu7nQT8AJICvDl11as3Cbv6c35hTcnzH-jWv03_fbXd3PNWfQYtQAPZJMRkdK2oMPb9afcjL9eXlS_ndmfcEEp00eOThClwXLPSPQyxS4/s1600/P3140080.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWr3iQ53g9fHcx981zJvI382C7d0rf5MqtvZgu7nQT8AJICvDl11as3Cbv6c35hTcnzH-jWv03_fbXd3PNWfQYtQAPZJMRkdK2oMPb9afcjL9eXlS_ndmfcEEp00eOThClwXLPSPQyxS4/s1600/P3140080.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
Some where after the "Schwieriger Riss"<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-a48Bx3ipuifWUlguHbUInZ9E1Ll79yGOqRugClXhzGEOo1_SkXd2yASOIf7qd7Y3ifpnMUt7yqNgxNJ-lVc68jFOvDbPe636Y1cZ1pXlT2e6TkIIHkXYbgX-q9U6sZC3z4Hk-9aVtEs/s1600/P3140102.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-a48Bx3ipuifWUlguHbUInZ9E1Ll79yGOqRugClXhzGEOo1_SkXd2yASOIf7qd7Y3ifpnMUt7yqNgxNJ-lVc68jFOvDbPe636Y1cZ1pXlT2e6TkIIHkXYbgX-q9U6sZC3z4Hk-9aVtEs/s1600/P3140102.JPG" height="640" width="480" /> </a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Quarzriss</div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge9ff3LHukuC_QiFc92LkaWfobs7GkgLtYbCRcbwWI2DYZ397ZHrVeAQrR4o8_XeaK9kefuot_B1ENSU3CuyWq6ZLoU-8ZDGJpV-KSnU0QmBuuZiwq5kLdKCS_lEmsmqVcdo5BKjTJK4Y/s1600/P3140105.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge9ff3LHukuC_QiFc92LkaWfobs7GkgLtYbCRcbwWI2DYZ397ZHrVeAQrR4o8_XeaK9kefuot_B1ENSU3CuyWq6ZLoU-8ZDGJpV-KSnU0QmBuuZiwq5kLdKCS_lEmsmqVcdo5BKjTJK4Y/s1600/P3140105.JPG" height="300" width="400" /> </a></div>
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I think it´s the Cortibiwak (bealy before the Exitchimmneys)</div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXlLBdAGZM_NLm6U-M2ebnpnoc52SPuvDUCtSfC6IDLGYEwsL6XrkDOP0xP67P5-qoriZ2toIl6c1x_TIKcF5amGAF2K5QI1hFdXE7uiwZxdLQgJuyT3LySRcp4lq-t3_2DeMedwRL788/s1600/P3140117.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXlLBdAGZM_NLm6U-M2ebnpnoc52SPuvDUCtSfC6IDLGYEwsL6XrkDOP0xP67P5-qoriZ2toIl6c1x_TIKcF5amGAF2K5QI1hFdXE7uiwZxdLQgJuyT3LySRcp4lq-t3_2DeMedwRL788/s1600/P3140117.JPG" height="300" width="400" /> </a></div>
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the last meters to the ridge </div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5m__P0gB6lbQkhytrmN7tlZKQZc84_NyJCLlCeZSDU-lU3GDsxNgkv4QDSuxqixwmzhBPlj0AArSMu4zrPxdFmm4T4tLwiEMbCrdg-Ga6VloXDf2b-iIsiEfEE8mfmYWiTg5eNRA9sXk/s1600/P3140124.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5m__P0gB6lbQkhytrmN7tlZKQZc84_NyJCLlCeZSDU-lU3GDsxNgkv4QDSuxqixwmzhBPlj0AArSMu4zrPxdFmm4T4tLwiEMbCrdg-Ga6VloXDf2b-iIsiEfEE8mfmYWiTg5eNRA9sXk/s1600/P3140124.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Summit yeahh</div>
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9s4MTXPBnjPu0CTjDVVmDCi2RlPf16I3svgRKptB4me7DMFgL_pYOzLx2D2B_iFWHALVZ0f1AHprN-g2AwM8weAc6updQxxXIAXtV1-6n0xwbk6j8irP1sl9lKC0svV0ebStTrH6IjXQ/s1600/P3140130.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9s4MTXPBnjPu0CTjDVVmDCi2RlPf16I3svgRKptB4me7DMFgL_pYOzLx2D2B_iFWHALVZ0f1AHprN-g2AwM8weAc6updQxxXIAXtV1-6n0xwbk6j8irP1sl9lKC0svV0ebStTrH6IjXQ/s1600/P3140130.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
the face at arround 4.30pm, while skiing to the car</div>
<br />Alex Lugerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01364069330539902885noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7941448629343006377.post-40189933277626747512014-02-07T04:09:00.002-08:002014-02-07T04:10:57.827-08:00Covershot on the pareti<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-Lrf8i_1677dIciLVvr2bc3h7oH0SXO9H8fLN92zPdDc-5MSO9A9os5rS6GRNZD1tgc7VOTUyDc0GJW-vdSdORDhPaDazPw9c9ljdoRkNYa4NZjIioP7qkNgXQbfBL-2JWITaA-Bjj18/s1600/Pareti+2014-02-07+um+12.16.54.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-Lrf8i_1677dIciLVvr2bc3h7oH0SXO9H8fLN92zPdDc-5MSO9A9os5rS6GRNZD1tgc7VOTUyDc0GJW-vdSdORDhPaDazPw9c9ljdoRkNYa4NZjIioP7qkNgXQbfBL-2JWITaA-Bjj18/s1600/Pareti+2014-02-07+um+12.16.54.png" height="640" width="452" /></a></div>
<br />
Location: Brückenkerze WI 6, Averstal.<br />
Thanks Beat Kammerlander for the nice pics<br />
<br />Alex Lugerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01364069330539902885noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7941448629343006377.post-61695340409126397062013-10-15T08:57:00.001-07:002013-10-15T09:07:59.688-07:00Movie Tonight on Television at ORF SPORTPLUS<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip2UYWaAN4XzJ4yQqa_zYOTaAEiWOwhIT408XkUY6gmTTWFbkaGgA_Gn3xnFYGjkF9BTCcB302jkWvcjMamYNq9cfdBm_a_XM5Zd3TRYYmxg4ESy2K9-LjXTIjmAxY0dmZUyBCNMrR_sE/s1600/DSC_3712.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip2UYWaAN4XzJ4yQqa_zYOTaAEiWOwhIT408XkUY6gmTTWFbkaGgA_Gn3xnFYGjkF9BTCcB302jkWvcjMamYNq9cfdBm_a_XM5Zd3TRYYmxg4ESy2K9-LjXTIjmAxY0dmZUyBCNMrR_sE/s640/DSC_3712.jpg" width="425" /> </a></div>
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Air time on Mainstream Ticino. Photo by Radek Capek </div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">You can
watch the movie of the climb „Sangre de Toro“ and Highballing on ORF SPORTPLUS
at 22.45 o´clock. There will be a live stream too on the homepage of ORF Sport
plus.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Enjoy </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Alex</span></div>
Alex Lugerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01364069330539902885noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7941448629343006377.post-63371359150476279052013-09-12T11:14:00.000-07:002013-09-12T11:14:33.092-07:00Filming projects<style>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2KEtXhrUY24XIgI2wyCoCdTqlAhH_O09XgOk8qZgXimsRFOR3fdGF2Vur1XQnHqg1W5COQD02mQHIHCGDKGfmFsEeoEvwst_tkN_RxUlRjXZv61osAMnpGuaxlycbJATXk4lvwx60hzw/s1600/DSC_3574.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2KEtXhrUY24XIgI2wyCoCdTqlAhH_O09XgOk8qZgXimsRFOR3fdGF2Vur1XQnHqg1W5COQD02mQHIHCGDKGfmFsEeoEvwst_tkN_RxUlRjXZv61osAMnpGuaxlycbJATXk4lvwx60hzw/s640/DSC_3574.jpg" width="426" /> </a></div>
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climbing high on Mainstream for the filming. pic Radek Capek</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">After an
intense ice climbing season and the trips to Utah and North Wales I had two
filming project one with Bernd Zangerl and some Highballs. The other project is
about the red point ascent off my multipitch route “Sangre de Toro” at the Rote
Wand. Both movies will be coming soon in television. </span><br />
<br />
</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVMTUwVhftaq3icO90OpEgLnb4C__BDz95QIKvpcbGF1tD0FltiWY0bAswUq9ihXpzJX3_UwacpzmNS6blpqeDLy4z9FiikjHMIkb_ySvSvV6g6IU8x0m1UtwO08yLpVSzOu_i7Xihyphenhyphena8/s1600/5P2C5680.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVMTUwVhftaq3icO90OpEgLnb4C__BDz95QIKvpcbGF1tD0FltiWY0bAswUq9ihXpzJX3_UwacpzmNS6blpqeDLy4z9FiikjHMIkb_ySvSvV6g6IU8x0m1UtwO08yLpVSzOu_i7Xihyphenhyphena8/s400/5P2C5680.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
on the cruxpitch 10+ of Sangre de Toro<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-e-M665oazKudIqkjOhKf6EaTMDuYMBx6gDMENBJ4T9_2FT9gY_2bpWCp77wV-XB5hjec35drjxQGiborfHx765KTznziJ39pVOtY2JsqZz0EAMuHGNG83eyGIdgXoGyOs2is5tn98zM/s1600/5P2C5548.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-e-M665oazKudIqkjOhKf6EaTMDuYMBx6gDMENBJ4T9_2FT9gY_2bpWCp77wV-XB5hjec35drjxQGiborfHx765KTznziJ39pVOtY2JsqZz0EAMuHGNG83eyGIdgXoGyOs2is5tn98zM/s400/5P2C5548.jpg" width="400" /> </a> </div>
at the belay before starting into the cruxpitch<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRFwl-q8rGsdDRJgOLEUy0ccQcGEoytM6eKu8JHbliP6hJ3dTvGiHx8IXMAgKi07lbE4L4Fc-KMZ4d4BrxfwxtdJfdRnFRnmq6iZn4JX_ine8rwFxBXncQO5oHYPr9KIApi11MgGV1isA/s1600/IMG_0016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRFwl-q8rGsdDRJgOLEUy0ccQcGEoytM6eKu8JHbliP6hJ3dTvGiHx8IXMAgKi07lbE4L4Fc-KMZ4d4BrxfwxtdJfdRnFRnmq6iZn4JX_ine8rwFxBXncQO5oHYPr9KIApi11MgGV1isA/s640/IMG_0016.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">After
finishing the productions I headed to Chamonix with Jojo for some granite
climbing. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As we got there the weather
and conditions were just perfect but my mind was not, I felt lazy. Maybe I did
too much climbing, it´s the first time in my climbing life where I felt it s
okay to sit in the sun while there was a perfect high pressure in the Alps.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So after some days on the Cham-granite we
ended up in Ceüse for some group sport climbing. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">At the
moment I am equipping new routes in my home area, amazing steep limestone…..
but secret </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Wingdings; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Cambria; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-char-type: symbol; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">; ).</span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"></span></div>
Alex Lugerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01364069330539902885noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7941448629343006377.post-61892340155820777652013-09-12T05:54:00.001-07:002013-09-12T07:24:38.571-07:00Flash Back<style>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">After my
first time in the US I travelled to Frankenjura for the Adidas Base Camp event
at Burg Rabenstein. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">I met up
with the other climbers of the team and we had a great and productive time
together with meetings and climbing lot’s of chatting with the other athletes
and good food ;).</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo8fJCfovegQh0bir4lMifnxmRvexrOBIIzPqFbZSj0qqN55hcKIuQjgaUtYW1hZisanwTFXEM8KIVSM2pm83p6hhfxwOsMC1WfvwsFMUIe3aHKDp59fVLk79LFR-L4HxrErLpqfvaH58/s1600/DSC09294.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo8fJCfovegQh0bir4lMifnxmRvexrOBIIzPqFbZSj0qqN55hcKIuQjgaUtYW1hZisanwTFXEM8KIVSM2pm83p6hhfxwOsMC1WfvwsFMUIe3aHKDp59fVLk79LFR-L4HxrErLpqfvaH58/s640/DSC09294.JPG" width="640" /></a><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">the famous slate quarry....... slippery climbing in a crazy area</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">After this
few days with not much climbing, I travelled for my first time to North Wales.
In my mind I was prepared for shitty weather, scary routes, cool people and
lot´s of rock. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Dorita
accompanied me and when we stepped out off Manchester airport the sun was
shining and no cloud was visible. This day Rob Greenwood picked us up and
introduced us to the Welsh rock. This visit we went climbing at the sea cliffs
of Gogarth, Rhoscolyn, Craig Dorys the Slate Quarry and on the pass. I fell in
love with the climbing in Wales. The walls are small compared to the Alps,
sometimes with lot´s of vegetation, and often wet. But there are lot ´s off
different types of rock so close that it´s easy to combine two climbing spots
in a day. The rocks are drying fast and on trad climbing it´s not about running
up 10 routes to have a proper training. I am remembering a writing on the bar
in the Klatrekafeen in Henningsvaer it ´s saying: “Sport climbing is like
eating a burger at Mc Donalds, you now what you get.” (Dough Scott)</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Compared to
the climbing on the sandstone in Utah, where you can almost place every two
meters a protection if you carry enough gear and a bomber endurance ;). In
Wales it was like being an artist. Looking up a blank wall deciding what gear
could be needed and just start the climb and see what you find. It´s more a
journey up the wall searching for features that will capture a wire, a cam or a
sling. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZZW7Nwks2l4-0Hh6IdveJgBvDK-yUKGSxtQPre6XwVHXKKm4VnK4enhbIZ5rO4uAtRwtZ34INsfYFQfJg5zcpx0uxZOJ0hXb5Vp3HoJnGzb4kpcPRwVdXyOOLZkhE2cwOAUfojgwwv3Y/s1600/DSC09027.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZZW7Nwks2l4-0Hh6IdveJgBvDK-yUKGSxtQPre6XwVHXKKm4VnK4enhbIZ5rO4uAtRwtZ34INsfYFQfJg5zcpx0uxZOJ0hXb5Vp3HoJnGzb4kpcPRwVdXyOOLZkhE2cwOAUfojgwwv3Y/s640/DSC09027.JPG" width="360" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"> Electric Blue at </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Rhoscolyn, amazing solo</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">My
impression of the local climbing community was that everyone climbs but nobody
talks about how bold or epic his day was and that’s something I have rarely
seen on my travels. It´s just about climbing and not how is better or the more
badass climber. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Thanks DMM
team and friends fro the good times.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAB3ZDpE0sH-Plq5_XNDeNVnh8a3Jh0gb4GP6t4P9-ffDz8KDS2uVN73kCa5vY-WWr_QRNEqQ7J-MZvJCN8F7FwlCrYymAYjdKNIpT3PXKhrXW6kKvBGgcO7coZ4OzlgQNDQ50VsljzB0/s1600/DSC09008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAB3ZDpE0sH-Plq5_XNDeNVnh8a3Jh0gb4GP6t4P9-ffDz8KDS2uVN73kCa5vY-WWr_QRNEqQ7J-MZvJCN8F7FwlCrYymAYjdKNIpT3PXKhrXW6kKvBGgcO7coZ4OzlgQNDQ50VsljzB0/s400/DSC09008.JPG" width="400" /> </a></div>
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very windy day at the seacliffs of north wales</div>
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the weather was amazing, the first 4 days we had sunshine all day ; ) </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOtNUxYWgBMP3xJpJcJ9ki3336kvt4f5B5BWETtdcO8pz3YpaILuOqlFuZIt3vHQ9ViLF8lpnfQQ5zv_alTitWLXEZ3HG_q9IJAHySyb-7vRRZ5pRN2UjyK9q_P51aHlS3WcdOEw6iFcU/s1600/DSC08924.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOtNUxYWgBMP3xJpJcJ9ki3336kvt4f5B5BWETtdcO8pz3YpaILuOqlFuZIt3vHQ9ViLF8lpnfQQ5zv_alTitWLXEZ3HG_q9IJAHySyb-7vRRZ5pRN2UjyK9q_P51aHlS3WcdOEw6iFcU/s640/DSC08924.JPG" width="360" /></a></div>
A E3 at the slate<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiALxTBwAY_h46_OtdZG0oSAPIkxZX4fj4lDJC0higc-y2V6Yv1Ycs2vBjlt3NytBU3aPQ76m0UXz3Z-amAMAxVzzm1hqZbtipJwgRpi8c96Ko_5v8fQqSqlbAWr_q5ZgZNRoXFpdt_yeM/s1600/DSC09054.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiALxTBwAY_h46_OtdZG0oSAPIkxZX4fj4lDJC0higc-y2V6Yv1Ycs2vBjlt3NytBU3aPQ76m0UXz3Z-amAMAxVzzm1hqZbtipJwgRpi8c96Ko_5v8fQqSqlbAWr_q5ZgZNRoXFpdt_yeM/s640/DSC09054.JPG" width="322" /></a></div>
Dreams and Screams, E6, on sight <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwGueiLYpkDs1696zkOadavEUu2imCGZSLGKcW9pbdYZXj6cxvhC6fGXmHhyphenhyphenzMLfR_IsZqtPhqJMrMOyK8FKP98QabuJrCNZqJL4A3pKyRFFkRaHnyT8-mjaiw0kl08rmidIb_hrfGUi0/s1600/DSC09081.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwGueiLYpkDs1696zkOadavEUu2imCGZSLGKcW9pbdYZXj6cxvhC6fGXmHhyphenhyphenzMLfR_IsZqtPhqJMrMOyK8FKP98QabuJrCNZqJL4A3pKyRFFkRaHnyT8-mjaiw0kl08rmidIb_hrfGUi0/s400/DSC09081.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Not so solid rock but great atmosphere, Craig Dorys</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhxUJGESzdlt6Gzf0sBbZpPuSOevJ1l4qbVeA8Sz1bXSQbrt-0z92eO-uM5D_t-bmZFVrMH2tJEPb6p5jeUr2bFxo9Ich7chAgTRfDlH1dX9oDyTSpXio4DS-GXBwsXsxV_bNdvncA_fo/s1600/DSC09118.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhxUJGESzdlt6Gzf0sBbZpPuSOevJ1l4qbVeA8Sz1bXSQbrt-0z92eO-uM5D_t-bmZFVrMH2tJEPb6p5jeUr2bFxo9Ich7chAgTRfDlH1dX9oDyTSpXio4DS-GXBwsXsxV_bNdvncA_fo/s640/DSC09118.JPG" width="360" /> </a></div>
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Classic E3 at Craig Dorys on a rainy day</div>
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Daddy Ben and the master genius himself Ray Wood at work! <br />
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and myself at work ;) Cockplot E5 on sight</div>
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amazing landscape and of course sheeps<br />
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All pictures of this post are taken by Doris Solis all rights reserved<br />
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Alex Lugerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01364069330539902885noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7941448629343006377.post-2770592903131976472013-07-24T04:49:00.003-07:002013-07-24T04:49:38.620-07:00Traveltime Open Space
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Canyonlands National Park</div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Ok where
should I start? My last entry is a long time ago and lots of stuff happened in
the mean time. After a intense iceclimbing season this winter I found myself
flying over the Atlantic. The aim was the desert of Utah, the long clean lines
of Indian Creek the towers, the arches, the emptiness. The first thing I felt
being out in the desert was water, water and water. I am born in a region where
water is just normal and if your in the mountains you will find tons of springs
and lots of rivers rushing down the steep valleys, everything is green and
juicy. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">I had lots
of days in the mountains where my thoughts where just focused on the next sip
of water running down my throat. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Here in the
middle of the desert our water reserves where the biggest treasure. Water is
life, and we had a easy life with our recourses. Imagine the natives living in these
canyons for hundred’s of years is just mind blowing.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Desert is
dead no life at least no “warm blooded” life. I was wrong. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Deer’s,
Rabbit’s, Turkeys, Coyote’s, Flowers in fresh colours I didn´t expected that
variety of life, it was everywhere.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx1fBYYI69J40Y5Fdo7jDiUshyphenhypheng9mKk9AoFX3wc9MbA3twfSksI5YuFs1DFtyiPFNf27eZoqS7Y3iepA7u6-GyF8qRq42vibVuwvsWj6X22h7jIMcmGU9mKwBzv404Pfvrsy3jaMxNd_I/s1600/IMGP3309.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx1fBYYI69J40Y5Fdo7jDiUshyphenhypheng9mKk9AoFX3wc9MbA3twfSksI5YuFs1DFtyiPFNf27eZoqS7Y3iepA7u6-GyF8qRq42vibVuwvsWj6X22h7jIMcmGU9mKwBzv404Pfvrsy3jaMxNd_I/s400/IMGP3309.jpg" width="400" /> </a></div>
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lonely flower </div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">I felt
somehow vulnerable and stupid because of my lack for basic survival knowledge.
I am a climber, I visit remote places, know how to survive in the mountains. But
I don´t know where to get water and food out of the desert because nowadays
there is no need to learn these skills.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">It just
reminds me that we our society is running more and more in an addiction where
organizing food from mother earth is almost impossible even the theoretical
thought is not there because everything is available all day. We life in a
organized and structured environment. It´s a big advantage yes but on the other
hand we are addicted. And this was what I felt the most while climbing in the
desert. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The
sandstone cracks in Utah, think everyone knows it or at least has seen some
pictures of the area, clear and CLEAN lines, powerfull, sustained,
crackclimbing. Stemming, jamming and yes liebaking, it´s somehow a European
thing ;) but it works soooo well.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We climbed
tons of cracks from offwidths to tips, my personal suffer size was an open
green to a closed red placement. After some time I focused on this size of
crack to learn how to jam, move fast and economic with “Ringlocks”. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Most people
ask me about the suffering on this type of climbing, the pain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The pain oh yes it´s there it´s part of
crackclimbing but while climbing I forget the pain I feel free I am in a flow.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">In the
morning swollen hands almost impossible to close. Sand everywhere, rattlesnakes
and massive whole body pumps. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">I´ll be
back.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga3UwWigUKKeO9OiL7MlOWYo4PHAoy3OpXZVY7k51fB1LG3EOZ1uh9bnNxKqv-gKHKlicJm0t4iY-N983h2c3A7NNb2nAm5QaxAEpicYwhnbW2Tov2lkT7ozLiLNsYDcJowQ6Rvjfp5iQ/s1600/IMGP3255.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga3UwWigUKKeO9OiL7MlOWYo4PHAoy3OpXZVY7k51fB1LG3EOZ1uh9bnNxKqv-gKHKlicJm0t4iY-N983h2c3A7NNb2nAm5QaxAEpicYwhnbW2Tov2lkT7ozLiLNsYDcJowQ6Rvjfp5iQ/s400/IMGP3255.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Climbing
pics will follow soon…</span></div>
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Alex Lugerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01364069330539902885noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7941448629343006377.post-63425738386823414172013-04-08T02:59:00.003-07:002013-04-08T02:59:59.948-07:00Pictures of the Ice Night ProjectRay Demski put some pics of the nightclimbing session on is homepage....<br />
<br />
check it out now......<br />
<a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_12524926"><br /></a>
<a href="http://www.raydemski.com/#/ACTION/Ice%20Nights/1">http://www.raydemski.com/#/ACTION/Ice%20Nights/1</a><br />
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<br />Alex Lugerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01364069330539902885noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7941448629343006377.post-42215574234456027032013-04-04T09:59:00.002-07:002013-04-04T09:59:44.092-07:00Ice Nights - Behind the Scenes This february Ray Demski and I realised a nightshooting project on ice with crazy equipment. The pictures of the Phase One camera have a amazing quality and a massiv size.....<br />
<br />
So keep your eyes open to see these pics!<br />
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<br />
<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="300" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/63175278?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0&color=F2D200" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="400"></iframe>Alex Lugerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01364069330539902885noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7941448629343006377.post-66397255428056705562013-04-04T09:59:00.000-07:002013-04-04T10:39:02.413-07:00Clip from the indian himalaya <div style="display: none;">
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<script language="JavaScript" src="http://admin.brightcove.com/js/BrightcoveExperiences.js" type="text/javascript"></script><script src="http://admin.brightcove.com/js/APIModules_all.js" type="text/javascript"></script><br />
Last autumn i traveled with Bernd Zangerl, Alex, Ray Demski and Jasmine to the Indian Himalaya for exploring, tradclimbing and bouldering. It was a really cool time, we had great climbing, funny experiences and not so funny ones, but all in all it was a great time.<br />
Ray made a nice short video for Red Bull, so Bernd is talking a lot ;).... the clip is cool and hopefully we or better Ray can make a longer version of this trip.<br />
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<br />
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c4Cn2IlCnb0">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c4Cn2IlCnb0</a><br />
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<script type="text/javascript">brightcove.createExperiences();</script>Alex Lugerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01364069330539902885noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7941448629343006377.post-10259410355133986492013-04-03T02:27:00.003-07:002013-04-03T06:31:59.309-07:00Brückenkerze - Averstal<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpZuBt6i306LgH3hj9bgXI4TYn2EKSf8A2Gk_HTs74NFMX_TUOR-dQDUsRhAMUT-L6W6K1GSxcKCU7tZbp8pkpTeBAlwONG-s9YX00QcXy9SpvUbQN73g1yFAXQgC5p3Gf3P5VuK_TPXk/s1600/20130223-5P2C4275.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpZuBt6i306LgH3hj9bgXI4TYn2EKSf8A2Gk_HTs74NFMX_TUOR-dQDUsRhAMUT-L6W6K1GSxcKCU7tZbp8pkpTeBAlwONG-s9YX00QcXy9SpvUbQN73g1yFAXQgC5p3Gf3P5VuK_TPXk/s640/20130223-5P2C4275.jpg" width="640" /></a>the hard climbing is over and we enjoy the top out in the sun ;)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfpYoHo98U1EBKg0A94fkvB0-sedXSnfp5-m7ppNxNzwc6oQIVDXTCJFlGq8NeHIs4ECGBUYM3PNoa7-e199CP3rwrhxU07yx1OibmHXtPu3cXmW_quqm2m8G9o2G144Aj3aSju2w8ecs/s1600/20130223-5P2C4180.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfpYoHo98U1EBKg0A94fkvB0-sedXSnfp5-m7ppNxNzwc6oQIVDXTCJFlGq8NeHIs4ECGBUYM3PNoa7-e199CP3rwrhxU07yx1OibmHXtPu3cXmW_quqm2m8G9o2G144Aj3aSju2w8ecs/s640/20130223-5P2C4180.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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at the beginning of the last pitch</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9F4y8e-jUB3Z8S15rEjuLOFnW-S3Tp9f6fwN9rs1P-sUNLPvll1buMfUlW05uIdCJ_yfVhJ2vBhlGNM7J7XshKrKwxbSRLy5GlrbKV9tHRZRycPPFODZYaM9zhmwj8txjQ7pOrDddmWA/s1600/20130223-5P2C4243.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9F4y8e-jUB3Z8S15rEjuLOFnW-S3Tp9f6fwN9rs1P-sUNLPvll1buMfUlW05uIdCJ_yfVhJ2vBhlGNM7J7XshKrKwxbSRLy5GlrbKV9tHRZRycPPFODZYaM9zhmwj8txjQ7pOrDddmWA/s640/20130223-5P2C4243.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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because of the low temperatures the ice was still very brittle</div>
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Together with Hanno I’m driving
through the wild Avers Valley in Switzerland. Seeing the steep gorges and the
partly iced-over Avers River we get the impression that we can grasp the cold.
Our focus is the „Brueckenkerze“ icefall, which is located right next to the
road outside the small town of Juf. </span><a href="http://alex-luger.blogspot.com/logout?d=http://www.blogger.com/logout-redirect.g?blogID%3D7941448629343006377"> </a></div>
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I have some unfinished business
with this line. A few years ago I wanted to climb the fall, after I heard that
it looks good. However, when we drove around the corner early in the morning
and saw the icefall we realised that the entire last pitch was missing. The
upper part of the Brueckenkerze must have broken off a few days prior. Not
unusual for such a line, that is exposed to the sun pre-noon. “Shoot, we’re too
late,” was my first thought. On the same day we climbed another fall to left of
the “Kerze”. On our way home I said to myself “that was just in time and not
too late at all!” </span></div>
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Timing – that is what I’ve
learned over the past years climbing icefalls – decides about what is climbable
and what not. Temperature profiles, danger of avalanches, and ice quality are
factors I take into account when I consider an ice climb. Ice structures like
the Brueckenkerze are only climbable for a few days and not every season. At
noontime the water flow increases, ice jutties and icicles put on a lot of
weight. The surface turns into some kind of mush and it doesn’t make sense to
start a climb.</span><br />
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> As we turn around the corner the
fall is complete! There is not much ice, but temperatures were quite stable
throughout the last days and we currently have 15 degrees Celsius below zero.
As I am repelling from the bridge I realise how craggy the fall is and I wonder
how the ice structure on the rather overhanging wall sticks together. But I
have a good feeling and the surrounding conditions are fine. The first pitch is
much steeper than I expected, the ice is very brittle and towards the end I
have to climb through an ice funnel in order to avoid a big ice mushroom. The
giant cone that holds the second pitch is “slightly ripped”, visually not too
inviting, but structurally no problem, because the strain energy is “released”.
In the upper part of the pillar the ice is less brittle and we thoroughly enjoy
the climb. It’s challenging, but I feel good. I’m in full control all the way
up to the bridge where I set my belay and wait for my partner. At 10h30 we are
back at the car and enjoy the sun. It feels great to have climbed the icefall
in such conditions. Who knows if the Brueckenkerze will once again stand there
like that, especially in times of gobal warming… </span></div>
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Two days later I’m back in the
area and I’m curious how the fall looks like. As approach it by car I can see
that one pillar in the lower section broke off. “Timing”, I say to myself. “I
was at the right place at the right time.” </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiPQOiLxTP0iCllMCVEoRIo3vGCGoOCEU-HVtK_aqW0mxFZtCJGSp8OJNqREwx66JacUWqECRpjSbQZfTj9eCmVes1cw8EMFbKEYG26e-6CQ98RrXA1h7uvc7hROGFTrTnY7O6RPL9HYc/s1600/20130223-5P2C4325.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiPQOiLxTP0iCllMCVEoRIo3vGCGoOCEU-HVtK_aqW0mxFZtCJGSp8OJNqREwx66JacUWqECRpjSbQZfTj9eCmVes1cw8EMFbKEYG26e-6CQ98RrXA1h7uvc7hROGFTrTnY7O6RPL9HYc/s640/20130223-5P2C4325.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Facts:</span></b><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> </span><br />
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-Length: 80 Meter </span></div>
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-Grade: WI6 </span></div>
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-Location: Avers Valley,
Switzerland </span><br />
<br />
Photos by Beat Kammerlander<br />
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Translated into english by Sonja Hamel </span></div>
Alex Lugerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01364069330539902885noreply@blogger.com0