Pio on the 2nd picht of "Save Madrischa"
While I was climbing on a new project, a good friend of mine made the first repetition (as far as I know) of the route “Save Madrischa” (I published a brief report on the route in the previous post). Seeing him climb was like a time travel back when I was there. Trying to fumble in some gear, while visualising the upcoming movements.
The Rote Wand was previously named MADRISCHA (isia mater). Translated the meaning it´s “Mother Mountain”.
To name this route “Save Madrischa” was a result of my personal approach and view concerning the history of the Rote Wand. The puristic way of how routes have been set up there over the time is a present for upcoming generations. For people like you and me, for us. I see the idea of “plaisir-climbing” as a trend which is a result of nowadays need to consume a “save” adventure. Climbing has found it´s place in the world of sports. And the playground is for everyone.
In my point of view it is important that we respect traditional climbs. We shouldn´t destroy their character with an excuse of contemporary safety standards. We still have a huge potential for putting up routes in a more “consumer friendly” style. It´s not important if a route has one hundred or just three ascents per year.
Isn´t it the quality of an experience which makes it a personal highlight? I remember those days most brightly where I had to fight, where I suffered, where I felt fear. The days where I exposed myself the most.
Don´t reduce climbing on the movement. It´s more. Think about your steady progression in life. And imagine there could be a time when your climbing changes.
This might be the point where climbing could be a projection of your feelings, an expression of your existence.
Climbing is not climbing! Save adventure climbs! Maybe one day you will need them too!?