Götterquergang
If you like
mountaineering and you live in the centre of the Alps you know the history of
the Eigernorthface and at some part you want to climb it. I always had in mind
to do it some day but never focused on it.
After my
return from a short trip to Fontainbleau (details will follow) Hanno sent the
following message: The weather is good! I knew immediately that he is talking
about the Eiger because we wanted to climb it and as it´s in our backyard we
waited for nice conditions.
So after my
arrival I changed the crashpad with crampons and a pair of tools.
When we
left my girlfriend asked me if I can climb the Eiger with my fucked up
fingertips (everyone knows what I am talking about after a intense time in Bleau),
I had to smile and explained that I was quiet sure I don´t have to crimp or
pull on a sloper in bleaustyle on the north face in winter.
We planned
to do it in one day so I was concerned if my “cardial” endurance will be
enough, because this winter I did more climbing than skitouring and
mountaineering. But Hanno was quiet sure we will top out in a day. So we went
pretty light but still with a stove some food and a bivibag for worst case.
On Friday
at 2.00 o’clock in the morning we started from the Eigergletscher station.
We choose
the option to exit out of the Stollenloch to save one hour of traversing to the
foot of the wall.
At 3 am we
stepped out of the tunnel and started the climb. At dawn we reached the
Todesbiwak (Deathbivi) and were surprised that people still lied in their
sleepingbags. We continued up the Ramp and had a good feeling because we still
had plenty of time. As we reached the Spinne we saw two parties climbing up the
exit chimneys so we slowed down a little because we didn´t want to be in line
of the falling rock from the upper climbers. At 2 o´clock pm we reached the
summit of the Eiger after 12 hours of walking and climbing. After a short rest
we choose the decent via the west ridge following a nice ass slide down the
snowslopes of the westflank. At 4 pm we reached the Eigergletscher station. We
had some drinks to rehydrate and skied down to the car.
The
conditions in the wall are pretty dry in the moment so no wet rock at all but
on the other side not much ice either. The icefields are still in a good shape.
Some where after the "Schwieriger Riss"
Quarzriss
I think it´s the Cortibiwak (bealy before the Exitchimmneys)
the last meters to the ridge
Summit yeahh
the face at arround 4.30pm, while skiing to the car
