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| on the fist hard pitch.....overhanging ice |
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The ice climbing
season is not an every year fixed part of my climbing activity. It´s more a
feeling that reminds me that it´s time again to hang on these crazy formations
created by the cold. Some days ago I saw some frozen water while ski touring in
the local mountains, and as I walked the summit ridge the noise of the crunchy
icy snow rushed with each step into my body. It´s winter. It´s cold. It is time
for ice.
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| still one pitch to go, but the hard part is done |
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After two
ice falls in the nearby Averstal, I wanted to visit Kandersteg because I saw a
picture of the Breitwangflue made by some local. Crack Baby looked not as solid
as in the guidebook but it looked like it´s grown together. So few days later
accompanied by Hanno we put on our skis and approached to the base of the wall.
It ‘was a relief that no one was already at the start of the route. Climbing
behind a party on an ice climb is not a good idea.
The start
went smooth, we climbed simultaneously until we reached the steeper pitches.
This section looked really impressive. The whole wall seemed to be overhanging
and the ice just gets some friction on the ledges. We had some mind game
because of the big “pang” I provoked while placing my first screw on the crux pitch.
The whole pillar got a horizontal crack. After calming down a little I thought:
now the tension built up with the change of the temperatures over the last days
is gone, now it´s maybe even more stable?!” With this in mind I focused and
climbed on. The consistence of the ice was ok but it had not much ice so the
steep pitches included big mushrooms, some of them created an overhang with a
little hole to scramble through.
I lead
most of the pitches so I was tired but happy when we reached the top. It was an
amazing day.
Thanks
Hanno for keeping spirits high.
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| on the decent of Crack Baby, after success...it´s steep ;) |
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| save belay....in the middle of the route |
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| the line |
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| avers ice |
